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Beyond The Rock

Beyond The Rock

By Emilie Hernandez & Jeremy Arntz

Rock climbing podcasts are not all made the same, and Beyond the Rock is no different. It's obvious from the moment you start listening and that's what makes it great. Hosts Emilie Hernandez and Jeremy Arntz bring a unique dynamic to listeners as they interview professional and amateur rock climbers from all over the world. The dialogue between hosts and guests can range from what type of chalk one should use, to the deep issues our climbing communities need to change. Check it out and drop a rating and review if you like what you hear.
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Ep 16: Cody Bradford

Beyond The RockSep 16, 2020

00:00
01:17:52
Ep 29: Shawna West

Ep 29: Shawna West

Shawna grew up in the flat plains of the Texas and Oklahoma State borderline.  The only outdoor activities available were the kind that required level ground with little to no change in elevation. Think soccer, baseball, softball, disc golf, football, and long distance road cycling. Shawna was first introduced to climbing in the Wichita Mountains in central Oklahoma and then again on an adventure trip in the Colorado Rockies with Outward Bound.  Though she fell in love with the sport, climbing did not become a part of her daily physical vocabulary until she moved to Austin in 2005.  There, she started working at the local climbing gym and climbing the local crags.  In- between 2005 and today, Shawna tried her hand at the luthier trade, she became a middle school language arts teacher, she then became a dyslexia specialist while simultaneously working as a stunt professional AND thrashing her way through graduate school until finally settling on a career as a school counselor and LPCA candidate. Shawna kept climbing as much as she could in order to keep her sanity intact!  Did Shawna enjoy blissful, uninterrupted climbing for the last sixteen years, of course not, but after surgery, injuries, sicknesses, and grad school, she always found a way to come back to climbing.  Shawna describes herself as a happy little local climber.  Now that she’s older,  traveling for climbing trips has become difficult but she plans on changing that.  In the meantime, she is determined to find pleasure and peace in the local rock.  During the weekdays, Shawna can be found climbing at the local gyms, or taking walks or riding her bicycle on her neighborhood trails.  On the weekends, she likes to climb outside whenever possible.  If she’s not climbing, Shawna can be found glued to her sewing machine, working in the yard, napping with her pets, paddle boarding, instructing rally racing driving courses, or volunteering for a local children’s trauma clinic.  As you can see, she likes to stay busy.


Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Mar 05, 202101:13:11
Ep: 28: Maya Madere
Jan 25, 202101:11:30
Ep 27: Joe Kreidel

Ep 27: Joe Kreidel

Hey everyone, my name is Joe Kreidel. I've been a passionate climber for 20+ years now, and have been fortunate enough to climb all over the country, and internationally. As well as being a husband and father of three kids, I'm the co-owner and Head Routesetter at Armadillo Boulders in my hometown of San Antonio, Texas. At Armadillo Boulders, my goal is to help people experience the joy, adventure, and self-discovery that climbing has provided me.

Like many Texas climbers, I started climbing at Reimers and Enchanted Rock, eventually becoming obsessed with the physics and problems solving required of bouldering at McKinney Falls. I've lived in many parts of the USA since that time, and have had the opportunity to explore many regions of our country's climbing geography and culture. One of the highlights of my climbing career was having the opportunity to develop boulderfields and a couple crags in the Tucson area. It has been great to return to San Antonio and revisit our favorite Texas climbing areas. It's great to now have the skills to tick off climbs I once aspired to climb, but wasn't capable of back then. What's even more enjoyable is that I also get to introduce my kids to the special areas we have in Texas.

Links to some of our community partners and artists featured at the gym are here:

Armadillo Boulders Website

@armadilloboulders

Vertical Solutions

@pulpcoffee

@espadacoffee

@elementkombucha

@republicbakery

@saitama.music

@kowallawax

@rikkiannevk

@davidmalcantar

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Dec 27, 202001:15:12
Ep 26: Vincent Pham
Dec 16, 202001:07:57
Ep 25: Ilma Vallée
Nov 24, 202001:27:29
Ep 24: Tommy Blackwell
Nov 17, 202001:19:13
Ep 23: Alyssa Garza

Ep 23: Alyssa Garza

Alyssa Garza is the Programs Associate for the Texas Climbers Coalition and a Texas Master Naturalist. She became a climber in 2015 when she discovered and fell in love with it while searching for a way to cross-train dance when she became owner of a dance and acting studio.

She is a passionate advocate for access to nature, and volunteers as much time as she can to help protect and clean our outdoor spaces as well as educating people to them. She was involved in the permanent protection of Medicine Wall in Texas, and frequently volunteers her time at Government Canyon State Park. Few things bring her greater joy than having the pleasure of introducing new friends to outdoor climbing, and strongly believes in the pay-it-forward attitude towards climbing and outdoor recreation knowledge.

Alyssa has a B.A. in Experimental Psychology and now works as a Digital Product Designer. She's hoping to apply her product design knowledge in a way that can help local businesses improve their digital presence to help them stay strong during the pandemic. She thinks ethnobotany is the coolest thing and will likely provide unprompted fun facts on any nature walk or hike.

Shout outs

Texas Climbers Coalition 

Alamo Area Texas Master Naturalists

Armadillo Boulders

Access Fund

Robin O'Leary

#saclimbingcrew

My loving husband and favorite belayer

@memorylag

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Nov 10, 202001:31:33
Ep 22: Drew Hulsey
Nov 03, 202001:05:13
Ep 21: Chelsea Rude

Ep 21: Chelsea Rude

Chelsea Rude is a professional climber with Adidas + Five Ten. She is the founder of She Sends Collective, an organization aimed at holistically empowering women (cis + non-cis), GNC and nonbinary humans through the vehicle of rock climbing with further education centered in nutrition, self-love, and developing a more kind and trusting relationship with oneself. This is done both through 1:1 coaching with Chelsea as well as group clinics and workshops. 

Chelsea is based out of Boulder, Colorado and has been climbing for 22 years. While the majority of her career was spent training in gyms for competitions, she now spends a lot of her time focusing on bringing women together and teaching them the skills they need to feel empowered and safe within climbing. 

Today, Chelsea really has been enjoying sport climbing and bouldering, although she wants to become more proficient in trad, ice, and alpine climbing. When she's not out teaching or climbing, she enjoys welcoming each day by watching the sunrise, covering large distances on foot with her dogs, jumping in alpine lakes, baking, reading and learning how to be a better ally for humanity. Oh, watching Grey's Anatomy, too.


Shout outs

Climbing Grief Fund

@climbinggrieffund

Brown Girls Climb

@chelseanicholerude

@adidasterrex

@fiveten_official


Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast


Oct 26, 202001:07:39
Ep 20: Hans Florine

Ep 20: Hans Florine

Hans Florine won the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, he held the US title eleven times. Hans won ESPN X Games the first three years in a row. Hans broke the Speed record on The Nose Route on El Capitan 8 times over the past 27 years, and currently hold the record. Hans Co-authored the book “Speed Climbing” in 2003. Hans co-authored the book “On The Nose,” an Amazon best seller, which marks his 100th ascent of The Nose. ⁣

In 2016 Hans was inducted into the California Outdoor Hall of Fame. Hans has produced, spoken, directed, rigged, modeled, edited, photographed, filmed, written, competed, and acted in projects with: National Geographic, Sports Illustrated, Outside, TerraQuest, Jim Thornburg, People Magazine, Men’s Journal, Sarah Fergusen TV special, ESPN, and various other photographic/commercial shoots. Hans has been with Bandaloop since 1990 as a: vertical dancer, rigger, fund raiser, and production support.⁣

Hans holds a BS Degree in Economics, Production Operations and Human Resource Management. California Polytechnic State University, 1998. He is certified in APICS- somewhat the precursor to Six Sigma. Received a California Tax Certified Preparer Certification and has completed Dale Carnegie leadership training. LEED Global Green Building Design accredited.⁣

Shout outs

Do Hard Things Challenge

Access Fund

Hans Base Camp

Diablo Rock Gym

Hans Florine Website

Hans IG

Hans Facebook

Hans Twitter

Hans Ted Talk

Hans & Peter in the Columns

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Oct 19, 202001:23:12
Ep 19 : Selena Pang

Ep 19 : Selena Pang

Aloha! My name is Selena. I'm a long time yoga teacher, climbing instructor and a real estate agent in Austin, Texas and a single mom to an amazing son who will be off to college soon. So that I'm not tempted to follow him around, in 2019 I bought a van for my 50th birthday present to self so I can start ticking the things on my bucket list.If you see me or the SexyBluBeast on your adventures, give me a holler! Let's climb, grab some tacos and share stories. I believe that life is about love, service and great adventures. This year, 2020, has been tumultuous like no other I've known, yet I believe that all growth and progress comes with growing pains. Love knows no colors, gender, age, race or religion; let's unite and create a world that is safe for all. My mission for the next 50 years is to share joy, help people stay safe on the rock, and be a part of the healing so that we have a beautiful place to pass on to future generations. I am an AMGA SPI and an Apprentice Rock Guide. I was blessed to win a scholarship with The North Face to take part in the Women's Rock Guide course and look forward to creating a fun learning environment. Shout out to @AMGA1979 for their earnest effort in diversity, equity and inclusion on the mountains and in the guiding industry, @accessfund for advocating and conservation efforts, Shelma Jun and @heyflashfoxy for being the fearless voice in making climbing accessible for all, Emilie Hernandez and @texasladycrushers for a great community, and @vandoitco for giving me a comfortable place to rest my head so I'm safe on the road and on the rock.
Hosts
Emilie Hernandez
@em.hernandez
@texasladycrushers
TxLC Website
info@texasladycrushers.com
Jeremy Arntz
@sleepeatclimbrepeat
@all_in_beta
@beyondtherockpodcast
Oct 12, 202001:13:10
Ep 18: Brianne Richardson-Jameson
Sep 28, 202001:08:53
Ep 17: Sierra Blair-Coyle

Ep 17: Sierra Blair-Coyle

Hailing from Scottsdale, Arizona, 26-year-old Sierra Blair-Coyle has been competing professionally since the age of 14.  Sierra is the current Pan American Bouldering Champion. She was voted one of the Top 99 Most Outstanding Women of 2015 by AskMen, she has also been a World Cup Competitor (2010-2019), and was a two-time National Champion as a junior competitor. Sierra graduated in May 2016 from Arizona State University with a degree in marketing.  She now enjoys traveling the world competing and doing what she loves full-time.

Shout outs (sponsors)

MAMMUT

MyClimb

Ascend Chiropractic

Kale & Clover

IG @sierrablaircoyl

Tumblr

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Sep 21, 202044:15
Ep 16: Cody Bradford
Sep 16, 202001:17:52
Ep 15 - Amber Caskey

Ep 15 - Amber Caskey

Hi I am Amber! I am a Mom, Wife and adventurer always looking for the next place to explore. I started climbing almost 10 years ago and have taken a different approach to climbing than most. I moved to Austin, TX 11 years ago to pursue a physics and mathematics degree at UT and have not used my degree since. I took a break from my studies to work at Crux Climbing Center and my world completely changed from there. Working at Crux introduced me to a lot of super awesome people (including Em) and organizations I could get behind. I have been all over the map at Crux - I have worked front desk, I was a route setter for 2 years (shout out to shitty sit starts on credit card crimps!) and now I am a House Supervisor for Crux South because we just opened a new location in the Highland area! I love climbing but I love climbing access advocacy even more. I was the Texas Ambassador for Access Fund TX for 2019 and 2020 where I volunteered for the Texas Director of Access Fund, Brian Tickle, on some important climbing access works. COVID-19 has hampered my ambassador efforts so I have recently started to explore broader definitions of access given the systemic racism and misogyny our country faces. I am still learning, I am always listening and I hope you are too! Shout Out to Crux Climbing Center for giving me the resources to be the best community advocate I can be, shout out to Brian Tickle with Access Fund for doing the good work, Shout out to my husband and son for always supporting my volunteer work and shout out to my brothers and sisters raising their voices for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women(MMIW). Please take a moment to research MMIW!

Shout Outs

Learn about Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women (MMIW)

Donate to MMIW

Crux Climbing Center

Access Fund

American Alpine Club

Texas Climbers Coalition

Rhino Skin Solutions

Stone Locals Video by Patagonia

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@em.hernandez

@texasladycrushers

TxLC Website

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast

Aug 31, 202001:19:44
Episode 14: Brian Tickle
Aug 28, 202048:03
Episode 13: Mario Stanley
Aug 24, 202001:14:01
Episode 12: Tré Goode
Aug 16, 202052:11
Episode 11: Jamie Roper
Aug 10, 202001:06:24
Episode 10: Katie Lambert
Aug 02, 202001:00:46
Episode 9: Bill Horton

Episode 9: Bill Horton

Hi, my name is Bill Horton. I'm a retired chemical engineer and an over-the-hill rock climber. I started climbing in 1976 at Enchanted Rock when it was pretty much the only place to climb in Central Texas. I was very active in climbing there until the state bought the land and shut down access in the early 1980s. They did this in order to install park facilities. I joined Central Texas Mountaineers shortly after it was organized by James Crump and others in the late 70s. This was back when the CTM was a gear co-op and the club pooled money to buy ropes and gear because it was too expensive for most individuals to afford. My 15 minutes of fame in life was getting on the September 1981 cover of the Texas Parks and Wildlife magazine. They did a feature article to introduce the public to the "new" sport of rock climbing. I hardly climbed for about 30 years from 1982 until 2012 when I retired. Then, in 2012, I got back into it and got elected to the Central Texas Climbing Committee, and to the board of directors of the Friends of Enchanted Rock. Now, climbing and giving back to the climbing community is how I spend most of my time. I led the effort to reprint the Dome Drivers Manual and have started working to get the Little Dome Driver back into print.

*This episode was recorded on 6/20/2020*

Shout outs

Granite Gripper

Friends of Enchanted Rock SNA

Access Fund

American Alpine Club

Texas Climbers Coalition

Armadillo Boulders in San Antonio, Texas

Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@cookclimbyoga

@texasladycrushers

info@texasladycrushers.com

Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@all_in_beta

@beyondtherockpodcast


Jul 20, 202044:35
Episode 8: Amara Dawson
Jul 09, 202059:44
Episode 7: Jason Kehl

Episode 7: Jason Kehl

Jason Kehl has been bouldering in Hueco since 1996, logging many winters there living out of his van. Some claims to fame include his first ascent of the notorious Evilution (V12, 2002) in the Buttermilks and the first bouldering ascent of The Fly (5.14d, 2003) in Rumney. 

Since then he has made hard first ascents from Japan and Peru to Europe and the US, including The SeventhCircle (V14) in Hueco. Jason is also well known for his collection of bizarre baby dolls and unusual art — see www.cryptochild.com. He has shaped holds for SoiLL for 20 years, and has designed more than 10 gyms, including the Englewood, Colorado Earth Treks which is one of the biggest in the country. 

He now lives in El Paso, Texas with the lovely Martina Mali and their sweet baby daughter Eva Luna. When not writing guidebooks, he continues to shape holds, design gyms, and make videos while exploring the endless potential of Hueco Tanks.


Shout outs

NEW HUECO TANKS GUIDE BOOK - Wolverine Publishing 

Hueco Tanks State Park

Hueco Hacienda

SoiLL

Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition


Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@cookclimbyoga

@texasladycrushers

info@texasladycrushers.com


Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@thicc_climbing


@beyondtherockpodcast


Jun 11, 202058:24
Episode 6: Victoria Wang
May 28, 202045:20
Episode 5: Nick Fuentes

Episode 5: Nick Fuentes

What's going on?! My name is Nick Fuentes, and I’m from San Antonio, Texas. I quit my job as a professional chef and business owner, and moved to Austin to immerse myself into the rock climbing community. I had recently discovered it and was in mad pursuit of a career in a field I knew nothing about. I was just stoked on rock climbing!! I got hired at Austin Rock Gym as an entry level desk personnel making minimum wage. There, I learned all about climbing and the technical systems involved. I began to get my feet wet with indoor instruction and knew that was what I wanted to do for a living. Shortly after I started at “ARG”, I began ticking off all the trad climbing prerequisites for the Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) course at Enchanted Rock.

Fast forward 2 years, it's 2017, and I'm living out of my Jeep Wrangler somewhere in Las Vegas, Nevada. This became the stomping grounds and multi-pitch haven I would come to love. I ended up spending the next 8 months of my aimless life over there until I ran out of money after attending my SPI course with the AMGA. I spent a lot of time dialing in my systems and exploring new terrain like multi-pitch trad routes, summits, and all types of 4th and 5th class sketchy rappels, and other tantalizing summit experiences. In 2018, before leaving Las Vegas, I tested out with Instructor Elaina Arenz and received my official SPI certification from the AMGA.

Inevitably, I ended up back in Texas where I now work as a climbing Instructor at a local climbing gym called Crux, I help teach the 101, top rope, and lead climbing classes. On the weekends I serve as a Single Pitch Instructor, and outdoor educator with a local non-profit organization called Explore Austin. This is a group whose main focus is getting children outdoors to participate in adventure sports. In the summer and fall seasons, I work in Colorado as a Trip Leader with Explore Austin, as well as another guide company called Outpost Wilderness Adventure (OWA).

In my free time I do what I can to educate myself, train, and prepare for the next step in my career ladder ..the rigorous rock guide course.  I take many trips to El Potrero Chico in Mexico (EPC) to get my big wall fill and I also enjoy flying around the to visit friends around the states for climbing adventure. I recently introduced my nephew and nieces to climbing and it has been a lot of fun. I'm always stoked to climb and I love meeting new people at the crag. I have established many profound relationships with my fellow rock climbers. What little time I do have, I enjoy relaxing and hanging with friends and family. Last but not least - keep the stoke HIGH!

Shout outs

Nick Fuentes

Frontier Outpost

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

Elaina Arenz

Tommy Blackwell

MBS Challenge 2020

Travis O'Neil - SPI Guide 


Hosts

Emilie Hernandez

@cookclimbyoga

@texasladycrushers

info@texasladycrushers.com


Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@thicc_climbing


@beyondtherockpodcast

May 23, 202036:51
Episode 4: Melaney Russell
May 20, 202001:06:52
Episode 3: Stefanie Myr
May 12, 202001:06:21
Episode 2: Lindsey Hamm
Apr 23, 202001:10:19
Episode 1: Drew Hayes

Episode 1: Drew Hayes

Drew Hayes is a seasoned documentary filmmaker, climber, and outdoor enthusiast. He has produced over 100 short documentaries in over 20 countries. As a climber he is always taking on new adventures and opportunities to grow and learn. He has bolted new routes in Argentina, climbed big walls in Nevada, and bouldered in east Africa. You can view more of his projects and work online at his website http://CtrlAltDeleteVideo.com or follow him on Instagram @DocSkribled. Recently his two passions have merged and he is in development for several climbing films focused on Central Texas. In March 2020, right before mandatory stay at home orders, he under went ACL surgery and is nursing a strained elbow tendon. With both of these injuries, his time in quarantine has looked very different than most as his work out options are significantly limited.


Recommendations and shout outs:


Hosts:

Emilie Hernandez

@cookclimbyoga

@texasladycrushers

info@texasladycrushers.com


Jeremy Arntz

@sleepeatclimbrepeat

@thicc_climbing


@beyondtherockpodcast

beyondtherockpodcast@gmail.com

http://www.beyondtherock.site/

Apr 15, 202001:11:14