biased with José Criales-Unzueta
By Jose Criales Unzueta
Biased is a thought-exchange platform that introduces listeners to the multifaceted individuals that come together to create the industry that is fashion. I’ll be talking with and introducing you to designers, performers, stylists, models, thinkers, editors, content creators, and more!
Instagram: @eljosecriales
Youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UChgafWZWKp9OcyRlx_XKxUQ
biased with José Criales-UnzuetaMay 24, 2022
What Does a Stylist Even Do? with Ronnie Hart
People love to call themselves stylists these days, but are they? Most folks are not 100% sure of what a stylist even does, let alone what it takes to be one. If you're one of them, fear not! On today's episode of biased, superstar stylist Ronnie Hart unpacks all things styling for you.
Ronnie walks us through his career as a stylist and gives us all the tea on what it's taken to get to where he is. From starting out at CR Fashion Book with Carine Roitfeld to styling music videos for Olivia Rodrigo and Troye Sivan and working with Brazilian popstar Anitta and emerging designer Saint Sintra, he's done it all! The scope of his work includes runway, editorial, and celebrity styling, so he graciously explains the differences between all of these and which one he tends to enjoy the most. Ronnie also discusses the importance of having a signature style and how he balances this with clients, plus, he makes a solid argument as to why it's still important to intern/assist and "cut your teeth" before branching out on your own (which I wholeheartedly agree with).
Ronnie is a stylist and consultant based in NYC and LA.
Follow Ronnie on Instagram: instagram.com/ronnie_hart
Follow José on Instagram: instagram.com/eljosecriales
On Imposter Syndrome and Perfect Skin with Sean Garrette
In this week's episode of Biased, esthetician and beauty icon Sean Garrette joins us to talk about the intersections of fashion and beauty in his own work and why he thinks the beauty and skincare industries exploded in the last few years. We also get personal and talk about our own relationships with fashion and style, touching on our shared frustration with sizing and the lack of body diversity in menswear. Plus, Sean tells us about his latest appointment as Dior Beauty's U.S. Skincare Expert, and we chat about our endless tussle with imposter syndrome and owning the opportunities we have earned. As two terminally Instagram-based creators, we also chatted about all things *content* and the trials and tribulations of having an Instagram aesthetic.
Sean is a New York city-based esthetician and content creator. Prior to being the Dior Beauty U.S. Skincare Expert, he was a brand ambassador for Rihanna's Fenty Skin (gag, I know).
Follow Sean on Instagram: instagram.com/seangarrette
Follow José on Instagram: instagram.com/eljosecriales
Influencing* Fashion with Alexander Roth
The influencer complex has grown and gotten more intricate over time. What does an influencer do? but most importantly, what are they influencing? what's the actual *influence* they have over fashion, culture, and people?
In this week's episode, Alexander Roth joins us to talk about the way influencers have grown to become a key element of fashion comms strategies. Plus, we chat about the difference between influence and clout and how we tend to confuse them, online visibility and having a "brand" of content, and why has fashion become so dependent of online personalities. Alex also walks us through his work in and out of social media, and we both answer whether or not we think we're "influencers" (lol).
Alexander Roth is a New York City-based producer, art director, and model. He's worked with brands like Dior, Prada, Saint Laurent, MAC, and Gucci, and partnered with the CFDA and LVMH.
Is All Press Good Press? – On Fashion PR with Gregory Werbowsky
Have you ever wondered what a fashion publicist does? Who those gorgeous gorgeous girls standing at the doors of fashion events with iPads and headsets are? If all those things you've heard about 'PR girls' are true? In today's episode of Biased, José and fashion publicist Gregory Werbowsky discuss the magic of fashion public relations.
Gregory and I discussed all things fashion PR including myths and misconceptions on what a publicist is and what they do, how can brands navigate social justice, and what the present and future of fashion PR are. We also talked about how he approaches different clients, his 'big break' and career journey, and tried to answer the ultimate PR question: is all press good press?
Gregory has been in the industry for over a decade, working in Fashion PR, Events, and Celebrity Relations. He's held director-level positions at top PR firms as well as senior-level in-house positions. Some of his clients included Bode, Edie Parker, Loeffler Randall, and others. Fed up with the big agency model and looking to give emerging designers a well-rounded level of attention, he Co-Founded Loft Creative Group, a creative and communications agency, where he is Head of Public Relations. Some of his current clients include Christopher John Rogers, Elena Velez, Gypsy Sport, and PH5.
Follow José on Instagram: @eljosecriales
Follow Gregory on Instagram: @gregorywerbowsky
Check out Loft Creative Group: @loftcreativegrouppr
Unpacking Fashion Week with Joseph Maglieri
In today's episode of Biased, José and Joseph Maglieri unpack the magic, myths, and misconceptions of Fashion Week.
Joseph and I dive deep into Fashion Week and discuss everything from key players to whether it's "worth it" to show and what it actually takes to do so (it's *expensive*). We also talk about regional biases and stereotypes (New York is so commercial! London is the epitome of creativity and subversion, Milan is so luxe! Paris is the only girl that matters, etc.), who actually gets to go to shows, who needs to be there, and how has the p*ndemic changed the way we experience fashion shows and made us more understanding and receptive to alternatives.
Joseph is a director at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). He's been at the CFDA for over six years leading New York Fashion Week planning from the schedule to designer identification as well as working on equity and social impact programs. Before CFDA, Joseph worked at Opening Ceremony in SoHo and began his career in fashion working for UNIQLO helping to manage their +J Jil Sander division for the New York City flagship. He’s an NYU graduate with a background in social science.
Follow José on Instagram: @eljosecriales
Follow Joseph on Instagram: @josephmaglieri
On Building Community Through Fashion with James Flemons
On today’s episode, Phlemuns founder James Flemons and I discuss the building of community through fashion. Whether it is through his social media presence on Tumblr, Twitter, or Instagram, or through his pop-ups, sample sales, and product drops, James has managed to create a brand built on a consistent open interaction with an ever growing community. His authenticity and honesty are unique and necessary for the industry today and I am grateful for his openness while we discussed his trajectory and journey until today.
James and I also discuss fashion's relationship with music, and how important fashion is for artists to create "eras" and visuals. Through his brand Phlemuns, he often collaborates with musicians and has been a part of many iconic moments in music including dressing Solange for her Don't Touch My Hair music video, Lil Nas X for his TIME magazine cover, Lizzo, Kelsey Lu, Rico Nasty, and more.
We also talk about some of the challenges of running your own brand in today's industry, his early career working at Opening Ceremony, our personal style journeys, and our mental health journeys.
James is a designer, artist, and activist. He is the designer and founder of PHLEMUNS.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Follow José on Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Follow James on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/unclephlem
Follow Phlemuns on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/Phlemuns
Follow James on Twitter: https://twitter.com/phakephlemuns
Identidades Individuales y Colectivas en la Moda con Guillermo Fonseca
Para este primer episodio de Biased en español tuve el gusto de sentarme a hablar con Guillermo Fonseca, comentador y crítico de moda Mexicano mejor conocido como @fashiontheorist .
Guillermo y yo discutimos la importancia de la identidad individual en la moda latinoamericana en contraste al imaginario colectivo visual de la industria internacional hacia la moda el nuestra región. Discutimos también los problemas de esta perspectiva internacional que trabaja bajo la impresión que en Latinoamérica todo es siempre resort y volados y mangas abombadas.
También hablamos de la apropiación cultural, de la inspiración y obsesión con "reinventar" símbolos y elementos de culturas indígenas, y mucho más.
Guillermo es escritor, comentador y crítico de moda, y consultor creativo.
Sígueme en Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Sígueme en Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Sigue a Guillermo en Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fashiontheorist
On Diversity Vs. Tokenism in Casting and Today's Model Look with Irene Ojo-Felix
On today’s episode of Biased, casting director and editor Irene Ojo-Felix and I discuss all things casting including diversity vs. tokenism, advocating for models, and what in her opinion is today's "model look". We also talk about supermodels, influencers as models and social media, and more!
Irene is a New York based editor, casting director, and fashion media consultant with almost a decade of experience with some of New York's top fashion media brands and influencers. She is currently the features editor at models.com and runs her own full-service casting company Sola Casting (@solacasting). Irene casts across the spectrum of creative projects for music videos, fashion shows, advertising campaigns, editorials, and special projects.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Follow José on Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Follow Irene on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/iojofx
Check out Irene's company: https://www.instagram.com/solacasting
On Fashion as a Research Tool and Adding to the Conversation with Nassia Matsa
On today’s episode of Biased, model and culture writer Nassia Matsa tells us about her career as a model and writer, while we discuss our relationships with fashion as first spectators and now insiders.
Nassia and I also discuss fashion as both a cultural tool and research tool, creativity in times of the pandemic, today's polymaths, and how important it is that the work that we do adds to the conversation.
Nassia is a model and writer born in Athens, Greece and currently living in London. She has written for publications like Financial Times, Dazed, Love Magazine, and multiple editions of Vogue. She has also modeled for brands including Balenciaga and Marine Serre and publications such as Puss Puss Magazine, The Glass Magazine, and multiple editions of Vogue including Vogue Italia and Vogue Portugal.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
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Follow Nassia on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nassia_
On Fashion Media and Writing About Fashion with Mario Abad
On today’s episode of Biased, Paper Magazine fashion editor Mario Abad tells us about his career in fashion journalism, his role as an editor, and his thoughts on fashion media today.
Mario and I also discuss writing about fashion independently, as a freelancer, and as part of a publication. Plus, we dive deep into the evolution of fashion media, the importance of writing about fashion in a meaningful way, online fashion commentary, and how publications can keep good brand relationships while still reporting transparently. We also talk about our shared love for brand quarterly financial reports and our favorite fashion writers today.
Mario is a writer and editor living in New York City. He's currently the fashion editor at Paper Magazine where he's been for the past two years and has also written style and culture pieces for Fashionista, Men's Health, Footwear News, Robb Report and Forbes.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
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Follow Mario on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/marioabad/
Follow Mario on Twitter: https://twitter.com/marioaabad
On Working in Fashion with Carmela Osorio Lugo
Have you ever wondered what’s it like to work in fashion?
On today’s episode of Biased, Madrid-based designer Carmela Osorio Lugo tells us about her career as a designer.
After graduating from college, Carmela started her career with the goal and mindset of starting a brand, this with a one person team consisting of none other than herself. She then moved on to working in the corporate side of fashion as a designer, first designing knitwear at Club Monaco and then as a denim designer at Calvin Klein Jeans under Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier.
After her time at CK ended, Carmela found herself at the door step of another opportunity: Attire The Studio, a new brand that influencer and entrepreneur Xenia Adonts was looking to start. She joined Attire as Head of Design and Product Development in 2019 and has been there ever since.
On this episode, Carmela and I dive into what’s it like to have a design career in fashion. We talk about the importance of having a team when building a brand, our experiences with corporate fashion, side gig culture in fashion and creative careers, and the importance of having something you call your own.
Carmela also tells us about her love for vintage clothing, her own personal style, and the key points in creating a sustainable brand and producing sustainable product from her experience.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Follow José on Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Follow Carmela on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/carmelanyc/
On Fashion & Identity with Alfonso Estrada
José and Alfonso Estrada discuss their own identities in relationship to fashion and clothes. They also talk about style vs. trend, shaping fashion to fit them and not the other way around, and whether or not they feel the need to compartmentalize their identities when working with and for larger brands.
Alfie also tells José about the process of finding their own identity as a non-binary Latinx doll and the role that fashion played in that process. They also talk about their passion for activism and elevating voices in and out of fashion and their experiences working with Iris Apfel, designer Natalie Ratabesi, and stylist Natasha Royt.
Alfie is a New York City based fashion creative and activist.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
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Follow Alfie on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/un.antojito/
Fall 2021 Menswear and Spring 2021 Couture Collections Breakdown with Kevin LeBlanc
On today's special edition of Biased, Kevin LeBlanc and I breakdown Fall 2021 Menswear and Spring 2021 Couture seasons. We discuss our thoughts on both seasons at large and analyze some of our favorite (and not so favorite) collections.
For more content like this, check out my collection reviews on my Instagram highlights!
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
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Follow Kevin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kevinleblanc/
On Fashion Media & Relevancy in the Instagram Age with Kevin LeBlanc
José and this week's guest, Kevin LeBlanc, discuss the state and future of fashion media, the fashion cycle, the future of print magazines, and what for them is the mark of a great designer. They also discuss fashion in the Instagram age and brands's never ending chase of internet relevancy. On top of this all, Kevin and José discuss what for them makes fashion in all its forms exciting today.
Kevin is a multi-faceted fashion doll currently working as a fashion assistant at a large publication in NYC.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Follow José on Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Follow Kevin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kevinleblanc/
On Access, Luxury, Classism, and Elitism in Fashion with Samantha Haran
José and Samantha Haran discuss elitism and classism in fashion, the evolution of fashion commentary through social media, and our thoughts on access, gatekeeping, and the meaning of luxury.
In this episode, Samantha and I also do a deep dive into the impact of social media. We discuss our own experience with creating platforms for commentary, Twitter vs. Instagram, and the cost of impartiality. We also talk about the over romanization of social medias’ “democratization” capacity and brands’ obsession with control over the information they share.
Samantha is a freelance fashion and culture writer and fourth year law student based in Australia.
Follow José on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eljosecriales/
Follow José on Twitter: https://twitter.com/eljosecriales
Follow Samantha on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ssamanthaharan/
Follow Samantha on Twitter: https://twitter.com/DECOUTURIZE
For episode transcript visit: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GLoGdIHhAtw0rAnxLzRa9gW41PQ4fDoS5qAxL2belII/edit?usp=sharing
On References, Biases, and the Intersection of Fashion and Culture with Joseph Maglieri
On today's episode of Biased, José and Joseph Maglieri discuss references at the intersection of fashion and culture, the importance of giving credit, the connection between social sciences and fashion, the need to de-center references, biases, and of course, Diet Prada.
In this episode, Joseph and I dive deep into references and their weight in today’s fashion landscape. We discuss the difference between a good and well-developed reference and simple copy-catting, the connection between fashion and culture, and the endless cycle of some work informing culture and other being informed by it. We also discuss the importance of giving credit to minorities and the cultures who have, for so long, informed fashion with no credit or recognition.
Joseph is a fashion doll with over 10 years of industry experience. He currently leads the Social Impact Initiatives at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) specializing in diversity, equity, and inclusion programming. He also leads NYFW programming across all markets, including designer discovery and the NYFW schedule. Joseph is also a writer and one of my favorite fashion thinkers, he is currently based in NYC.
Follow José on Instagram: @eljosecriales
Follow Joseph on Instagram: @josephmaglieri
For episode transcript visit: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1bwZbqsK-n5Aiqt-WMXz5asuKDO7_ppZAVlPcjFaRA9o/edit?usp=sharing
On Modeling, Healing, and Role Models with Aba Mfrase-Ewur
José and NYC-based healer and supermodel of the world Aba Mfrase-Ewur discuss modeling in today's fashion ecosystem, trauma and healing, and role models in today's internet age.
In this episode Aba and I discuss her journey through modeling, becoming a healer, the importance of growing into yourself, and role models. We also discuss imagery in the fashion industry and talk about the nuance behind modeling and selecting jobs — that is choosing to be the tangible and visual representation of a brand and/or product — and our responsibility as people inside the industry in regards to what products of fashion people are exposed to and have access to. We also discuss the Vogue Challenge, Vogue US and Annie Leibovitz, and our shared love for Edward Enninful’s work at British Vogue!
Follow José on Instagram: @eljosecriales
Follow Aba on Instagram: @abamfraseewur
For episode transcript visit: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-N3k1OFadsSiXaS01PRRfui3E_D3tzx2JZL-MLW3Ea8/edit?usp=sharing
On Queerness and Fashion with Jazzmint Dash
José and sickening New York City based Drag Queen and Fashion Designer Jazzmint Dash discuss queer identity and the effects of queerness in fashion.
In this first episode Jazzmint and I discuss our own personal experiences being queer and existing and working in fashion, and our thoughts on fashion and queerness related topics including: the concept of queer performance, Pride merchandise and ad campaigns, Drag Race and Drag Race stans, Lady Gaga, and more!
Alok's Business of Fashion talk mentioned in the episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlAqxFyoOCA
Follow José on Instagram: @eljosecriales
Follow Jazzmint on Instagram: @jazzmintdash
Jazzmint's brand: @jazzbyjazzny
For episode transcript visit:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rSvr5MJYZ0zW_H4PmueJONHw3N_GdrwHgekkfFG2AmU/edit?usp=sharing
Trailer
Introducing Biased with José Criales-Unzueta
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