Black Fashion History
By Black Fashion History
Black Fashion History Sep 10, 2020
Ep. 28 | Fashion as Wearable Art: Jae Jarrell
Elaine "Jae" Jarell is an artist, fashion designer and one of the co-founders of the African Commune of Bad Relevant Artists (AFRICOBRA) best known for her one-of-a-kind pieces during the Black Arts Movement. She used her designs to celebrate Black culture and provide positive imagery of and for African Americans. Listen to her story. More at www.blackfashionhistory.com.
Sources/Further Reading:
Image Magazine, April 1978 Edition
http://agyu.art/project/jae-jarrell-2/
https://www.mocacleveland.org/jae-jarrell
https://never-the-same.org/interviews/wadsworth-and-jae-jarrell/
https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/exhibitions/3300
http://agyu.art/project/jae-jarrell/
https://crystalbridges.org/blog/soul-of-a-nation-jae-and-wadsworth-jarrell-partners-in-life-and-art/
https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/210701
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Ep. 27 | The Creator of the Black Fashion Museum: Lois Alexander Lane
Lois Alexander Lane dedicated her life’s work to highlight the role of African Americans in fashion since the beginning of the 19th Century. She created the Black Fashion Museum which housed the largest and rarest Black fashion collection of all time. Listen to her story.
Sources/Further Reading:
https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/stories/celebrating-fashion-icon-lois-k-alexander-lane
https://artsandculture.google.com/entity/lois-k-alexander-lane/g11cmdh75_3?hl=en
https://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/26/AR2007102602221.html
http://harlembespoke.blogspot.com/2010/04/walk-harlems-forgotten-fashion.html
https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/manhattan/harlem-week-history-style-article-1.1417365
Ep. 26 | The History of Black Women in Luxury Fashion
In this episode, Taniqu discusses how Black women have been the muses for luxury designers and how Black women have increased the popularity and desirability of luxury fashion throughout history.
More at https://www.blackfashionhistory.com/
Sources/Further Reading:
https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/qvqde3/lil-kim-louis-vuitton-david-lachapelle
Ep. 25 | The First Black Woman to Grace the Cover of a Fashion Magazine - Katiti Kironde
In this episode, Taniqua discusses how Katiti Kironde became the first Black woman to be on the cover of a mainstream fashion magazine (Glamour). More at https://www.blackfashionhistory.com/
Sources/Further Reading:
http://www.frameofmindproject.org/katitikironde
https://www.huffpost.com/entry/katiti-kironde-glamour-magazine-first-black-cover-model_n_2597505
Ep. 24 | The Remix: Hip Hop x Fashion Review
In this episode, Taniqua reviews the Netflix documentary The Remix: Hip Hop x Fashion and discusses the state of Black brands and influencers in the fashion industry. Visit us online at https://www.blackfashionhistory.com/
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BlackFashionHistory.com is Here!
Download educational resources and show notes now at https://www.blackfashionhistory.com/.
Ep. 23 | The Role of Fashion in Movements for Justice
In this episode, Taniqua discusses how business formal attire and denim were used in the 1960s to highlight racism injustice, sexism and classism during the Civil Rights Movement.
Sources/Further Reading:
Liberated Threads by Tanisha C. Ford
SNCC Women, Denim, and the Politics of Dress by Tanisha C. Ford
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Ep. 22 | Protecting Your Fashion Brand and Legacy with Jaleesa Johnson
Jaleesa Johnson
Website: https://alienindaroom.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alienindaroom/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCR9TtZsHwPLxVW_VbgFCWBQ
Ep. 21 | Creating Characters with "A Different World" and "Living Single" Costume Designer Ceci
Costumer Ceci discusses her experience working on iconic shows like A Different World and Living Single and what true diversity looks like.
About Ceci:
Ceci is a costume designer with over 20 years of experience in the entertainment industry. She's worked on many sitcoms, television shows and movies including A Different World, Living Single, Sister Siter, The Inkwell and more. Most recently, she is the costumer designer for Mixedish and Dear White People. Check out the links below to learn more about Ceci.
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Ep. 20 | Sustainable Style and Communities of Color with Dominique Drakeford
Ep. 19 | BlackNFashion with Lenese Calleea
Ep. 18 | Made in Africa with Jacqueline Shaw
Taniqua chats with Jacqueline Shaw about the importance of building sustainable fashion businesses that manufacture in an African country. Jacqueline Shaw is a fashion designer, educator and business coach who helps creative entrepreneurs, designers, brands and retailers to reimagine their supply chain to produce socially and environmentally sustainable products on the African continent.
Where to find Jacqueline:
https://www.africafashionguide.com/
https://www.facebook.com/MsJacquelineShaw/
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Ep. 17 | Nigeria's First Fashion Designer - Victoria Folashade Thomas-Fahm
Victoria Folashade Thomas-Fahm
Ep. 16 | Jay Jaxon: 40 Years of Fashion Design Brilliance with designer, curator and fashion historian Rachel Fenderson Part II
* Apologies for the audio in this episode.
Taniqua continues her conversation with Rachel Fenderson about the life and career of Jay Jaxon. The ladies discuss Jaxon's move to the States, his name change and the importance of documenting your history and telling your own stories.
About Rachel Fenderson:
Rachel Fenderson was born and raised in Queens, New York, to Jamaican parents. She obtained a Bachelor’s degree in English Literature at Hofstra University and later attended Parsons The New School for Design to complete a Fashion Studies, Applied Associates Science degree of Fashion Design. On January 1, 2011, Rachel Fenderson and her sister Marsha Fenderson, founded a womenswear company monikered: Pepper Jacques. By 2016, Fenderson furthered her education at Parsons Paris: The New School for Design in Paris, France. She completed her Master’s thesis JAY JAXON: A Biographical Study and Media Discourse Analysis Reinstating A Designer Into Fashion History. Pursuing this degree gave her the opportunity to write the first biographical thesis study on the designer Jay Jaxon. Fenderson displayed her first exhibition on Jaxon at the Mona Bismarck American Center in Paris (2018). At the Queens Public Library in Queens, New York, Fenderson brought her exhibition on Jay Jaxon to the United States for the month of August 2019. To commemorate the 50th Anniversary of Jay Jaxon’s historical Couturier role, Fenderson will exhibit his work at the Queens Historical Society from February 2020 – December 2020. ---- Source: Queens Historical Society
Jay Jaxon: 40 Years of Fashion Design Brilliance exhibition
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Ep. 15 | Jay Jaxon: 40 Years of Fashion Design Brilliance with designer, curator and fashion historian Rachel Fenderson Part I
Taniqua chats with Rachel Fenderson, fashion designer, curator, historian and lead authority on Jay Jaxon, about the life and career of designer Jay Jaxon and her exhibit at the Queens Historical Society. As the first American to lead a French Couture house (Jean Louis Scherrer), Jay Jaxon paved the way for French and American designers today.
About Rachel Fenderson:
Rachel Fenderson was born and raised in Queens, New York, to Jamaican parents. She obtained a Bachelor’s degree in English Literature at Hofstra University and later attended Parsons The New School for Design to complete a Fashion Studies, Applied Associates Science degree of Fashion Design. On January 1, 2011, Rachel Fenderson and her sister Marsha Fenderson, founded a womenswear company monikered: Pepper Jacques.
By 2016, Fenderson furthered her education at Parsons Paris: The New School for Design in Paris, France. She completed her Master’s thesis JAY JAXON: A Biographical Study and Media Discourse Analysis Reinstating A Designer Into Fashion History. Pursuing this degree gave her the opportunity to write the first biographical thesis study on the designer Jay Jaxon.
Fenderson displayed her first exhibition on Jaxon at the Mona Bismarck American Center in Paris (2018). At the Queens Public Library in Queens, New York, Fenderson brought her exhibition on Jay Jaxon to the United States for the month of August 2019.
To commemorate the 50th Anniversary of Jay Jaxon’s historical Couturier role, Fenderson will exhibit his work at the Queens Historical Society from February 2020 – December 2020. ---- Source: Queens Historical Society
Jay Jaxon: 40 Years of Fashion Design Brilliance exhibition
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Ep. 14 | Representation in Fashion, Arts and Education: The Career of Dr. Aziza Braithwaite Bey
Ep. 13 | The Grandassa Models: Ambassadors of the Black is Beautiful Movement with Cinque Brathwaite - Part II
Taniqua continues the conversation with Cinque Brathwaite, the co-founder and president of the Elombe Brath Foundation. Cinque talks about how the African Jazz Art Society and Studio birthed the Black is Beautiful Movement and the Grandassa models, a group that changed the standards of beauty for an entire community and became the inspiration behind the first drop of Rihanna's Fenty collection.
The Grandassa Models
Ep. 12 | The Grandassa Models: Ambassadors of the Black is Beautiful Movement with Cinque Brathwaite - Part I
In the season premiere, Taniqua chats with Cinque Brathwaite, the co-founder and president of the Elombe Brath Foundation. Cinque talks about how the African Jazz Art Society and Studio birthed the Black is Beautiful Movement and the Grandassa models, a group that changed the standards of beauty for an entire community and became the inspiration behind the first drop of Rihanna's Fenty collection.
The Grandassa Models
Ep. 11 | Year End Wrap Up with Gabby Layne of The Strut Magazine - Season Finale
In the final episode of the season, Taniqua chats with Gabby Layne, creator and Editor in Chief of the Strut Magazine, an independent magazine dedicated to creating a community for black fashionistas and covering black fashion culture. The two ladies discuss 2019s biggest moments in black fashion from Rihanna being the first black woman to have a luxury label as part of the LVMH fashion house to Kerby Jean-Raymond dropping out of the Business of Fashion 500 list.
The Strut Magazine
http://www.thestrutmagazine.com/
https://www.instagram.com/thestrutmagazine/
Ep. 10 | Fluff Chance - Eric Gaskins
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses the career of African-American designer and fashion blogger/commentator Eric Gaskins.
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Ep. 9 | Triple Threat: Illustrator, Photojournalist & Designer - Alvin Bell
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses the career of African-American fashion illustrator, designer and photojournalist Alvin Bell who also was the man behind the proposed Michael Jackson collection in the 80s.
Sources/Further Reading:
https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB858204479567365500
https://www.mcall.com/news/mc-xpm-1984-11-22-2443468-story.html
https://www.thehistorymakers.org/biography/alvin-bell-41
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Ep. 8 | Harlem Fashionista - Ruby Bailey
Ruby Bailey was a Harlem fashionista and designer that did NOT get the recognition she deserved. In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses Ruby Bailey as a pioneer of Afrocentrism in fashion and worked to promote the recognition of black designers.
Sources/Further Reading:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVGDlrNSAbc
https://www.harlemworldmagazine.com/harlems-ruby-bailey-fashion-pioneer-ny-1912-2003/
https://blog.mcny.org/2016/01/05/reintroducing-ruby-bailey/
https://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/13/nyregion/thecity/a-closetful-of-genius.html
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Ep. 7 | The Grandfather of Black Designers - Arthur McGee
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Ep. 6 | The Most Successful Black Designer in America - Willi Smith
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses the most successful black designer in America, Willi Smith.
Spotlight:
Lindsay Peoples Wagner: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/30/style/teen-vogue-lindsay-peoples-wagner-race.html
Sources/Further Reading:
https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1987-04-20-mn-1003-story.html
https://www.vogue.com/article/willi-smith-cooper-hewitt-exhibit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMsO6AH9rR4
https://wwd.com/fashion-news/ready-to-wear/sportswear-an-american-invention-6241103/
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Ep. 5 | Milliner to the Stars - Mildred Blount
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses how Mildred Blount, the ladies' hat maker behind the pieces in "Gone with the Wind," rose to stardom.
Spotlight:
LC Apparel Consulting: https://www.instagram.com/lc_apparelconsulting
Sources/Further Reading:
"5 Decades of Black Style," Ebony Magazine
https://mrmhadams.typepad.com/blog/gay-studies/page/2/
https://sites.utexas.edu/ransomcentermagazine/tag/mildred-blount/
https://blackthen.com/mildred-blount-first-african-american-to-make-hats-for-celebrities/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Wy7WhUzvI
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Ep. 4 | The King of the Jersey - Scott Barrie
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses how Scott Barrie became known as the man who made the jersey matte dress.
Spotlight:
The Strut Magazine: http://www.thestrutmagazine.com/
Sources/Further Reading:
Black Designers Surviving in Style, Ebony Magazine Nov. 1980
Scott Barrie Is Dead; Designer, 52, Made Jersey Matte Dresses by Anne-Marie Schiro
Style Makers; Scott Barrie, Fashion Designer by Anne-Marie Schiro
Video: Scott Barrie Interviews with R. Couri Hay
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Ba-Bo/Barrie-Scott.html#ixzz62TKyA5dg
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Ep. 3 | The Leading Modernist Jeweler of All Time - Art Smith
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, Taniqua discusses how Arthur George "Art" Smith overcame racism to make his mark in fashion and art.
Sources/Further Reading:
https://www.ganoksin.com/article/art-smith-goldsmith-silversmith/
https://www.jstor.org/stable/1557133?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents
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Ep. 2 | The Fit Queen - Zelda Wynn Valdes
In this episode of #BlackFashionHistory, we breakdown how Zelda Wynn Valdes rose to fame, her signature style and the legacy she left behind.
*Episode correction: Valdes' boutique in 1948 was named Chez Zelda.
Sources/Further Reading:
Overlooked: Zelda Wynn Valdes by Tanisha C. Ford
Fashionable Game-Changer: Zelda Wynn Valdes
Matriarch of Dancers Sews Clothing of Delight by David Gonzalez
Zelda Wynn Valdes by Becky Oeltjenbruns
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