Heddels Blowout

Reed, Albert and I (David) are back with a new off-Heddels podcast called Neverrong and we thought you might want to hear about it.

Neverrong is a fashion and culture show where we breakdown a topic that's trending in the world today and explore where it came from, where it's going, and how much carbon it's probably putting into the atmosphere.

This is our first episode on Trucker Hats, but you can find a bunch more on our Substack and on Spotify, Apple, etc etc. Thanks for your support over the years!

• 3sixteen has these, and are running a roughout now too.
• ALD is making garden clogs. They look cool.
• Chillbies (Reed’s favorites and US made!)
• The Blackstock Ellis/Horsebits
• Fear of God joints
• Fancy Boston’s
• Crocs (you can find them give Google Ads a workout I guess)
• Subus (Reed maintains that these are mostly just Thermoballs)
• New Balance 2002R
• Suicokes
• The Nepenthes Suite:
  • Easy Mocs
  • Troentorp x Needles Clogs
  • Rhodo Mary Janes

​​What Smoking Slippers Talk About When They Talk About Smoking

Hear the full episode on Heddels+

• The BUZZ RICKSON Chambray workshirt.
• Orslow Chambray shirt (not workshirt)
• Vintage Lee Storm Rider
• TS(S) Reversible Jacket
• Good Art Curb Chain #1 Necklace
• Chuck 70s
• Birk Boston
• Blundstone's
• Orslow 105
• Sugar Cane 66 and 47
• Orslow Regular Fit Fatigue
• Barena Elastic Waist Trousers

Then, if you're still reading, we pitch each other on things we need to buy! The other host decides if it's a keeper or not.

Hear the full episode on Heddels+: http://heddels.plus

David chimes in from the road, which we don't quite respond to. Albert and Reed spend their morning hashing through the new J. Crew and how best to market a new brand to someone. Here is a link to the J.Crew Fall 2022 lookbook, the first collection spearheaded by Brendon Babenzien. We've been waiting for it and here it is. If you want to see what the old, old J.Crew looked like, we'd recommend @lostjcrew on Instagram.

We discuss Mall fashions, democratizing style, and how to stand out when everyone you know is wearing the Giant Fit chinos.

Hear the full episode on Heddels+:

http://heddels.plus

Reed and Albert delve back into the world of carny-core with some advice on jort-ifying your jeans, what we liked at Paris Fashion Week, and what the new "heritage" is.

Thank you for joining us for nearly 100 hours. Help us out by joining Heddels+ or by visiting the Heddels Shop, 10% off with code BLOWOUT.

Hear the full episode on Heddels+:

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David talks with perennial Blowout guest, photographer Eric Kvatek in advance of his round the world trip. Hear tips, tricks, and how Eric was once inadvertently a mailman on a Mexican train.

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Albert's back everyone! And we herald his return with discussion of the most relevant news of the day, Kim K stretching out Marilyn Monroe's dress at the Met Gala. But it goes deeper than that, should we be wearing historically significant and rare items like truly vintage denim? And when does a garment stop being a garment? Also we revisit discussion of how to learn about fashion online and work through a case of Outlier  clothing that I'm testing for future travel.

How does one start down the long indigo path online these days? We're beyond the heyday of blogs and Tumblr and have moved into the realm of reels, reels that involve some guy telling you to tuck in your shirt or pull your hoodie through your beltloops. Reed and David discuss the prospect of starting out as a fashion neophyte these days and the various posts and influencers one might encounter.

We also get into the following:

• Barns Shaggy Dog Cardigan
• The horror of long-sleeve Hawaiians
• Why anyone would want a half-zip western
• And Manresa

Join Heddels+ for more and visit the Heddels Shop for 10% with the code BLOWOUT.

Hear the full episode on Heddels+:

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If peeing your pants is cool, you can buy some jeans that already look like they've been peed in at Wet Pants Denim (complete with pisscoin). We also discuss the rise of Fettermania and what a Dickies and Carhartt clad Senate candidate means for the future of political dress and the agony and ecstasy of trying to sell your used clothing online.

In our niche, getting your jeans repaired is in many ways more important than buying them in the first place, and we had the opportunity to discuss with someone who knows all the ins and outs about both. Satchel B. Moore started Science and Kindness Denim Repair in the early 2010s to complement his day job selling raw denim at BlackBlue in Saint Paul, Minnesota and it has since grown into a fully-fledged repair studio doing any fabric fix or alteration you can imagine on a full roster of vintage machines.

We chat with Satchel about everything from his early days buying Cheap Monday jeans from online proxies to fitting heavyweight flat-fells through a Union Special 43200G.

You can start your own repair by visiting their website, scienceandkindness.net or on Instagram @scienceandkindness. Also, Heddels+ members get 1 Free Chainstitch hem, OR $35 dollars off any service, OR 20% off any service over $100 per month (shipping not included).

Five pairs. If you only had five pairs of shoes to get you through every single possible scenario in your life, what would you choose? We make our cases for shoes past, present, and future that are up to the task. We also discuss New York state's upcoming bill banning polyfluoroalkyls (PFAs) that are used in millions and millions of garments every year and have serious health and environmental consequences.

Thank you to our sponsor, Science and Kindness Denim Repair. Whether your jeans fit so well they are wearing out or need some adjustments to truly earn your love, Science and Kindness Denim Repair understands. Discrete crotch repairs? Yeah. Sashiko? Yeah. Chainstitch embroidery? Yeah. Union Specials? Yeah. Period correct Big E patches? Yeah!

They go hard when it comes to your jeans but it’s not hard to get things taken care of usually within two weeks. No waitlist. No judgement. Just your jeans-- better. By mail or drop-off in St. Paul, MN. @Sciencendkindness on instagram to see our work, scienceandkindness.net for an estimate or to get started. A free chainstitch hem and repair/service discounts for all Heddels+ members. Science and Kindness — Less Yikes.

David

1. Lowa Renegade GTX Max
2. Mizuno Wave Ascend 8
3. Yuketen Pedro Roper
4. Vans Eras
5. Gucci 1953 Horsebit Loafer

Albert

1. Hoka Clifton 7 Running Shoes
2. Paraboot Chambord
3. Chuck 70s
4. New Balance 990v5
5. Pull on boot

Reed

1. Birkenstock Bostons
2. Adidas Powerphase
3. Scarpa Instinct VS
4. Nike Free 2 Trail or the Adidas Terrex joints
5. Loafer, likely Alden Handsewn 

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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Praise be to Ryan for salvaging this episode that was recorded in undisclosed locations in northern Nevada. We discuss the California look after I witnessed a significant amount of it on a recent trip, swimsuit options available to the modern man, and how the trends are swerving into Reed's lane.

Thank you to our sponsor, Science and Kindness Denim Repair. Whether your jeans fit so well they are wearing out or need some adjustments to truly earn your love, Science and Kindness Denim Repair understands. Discrete crotch repairs? Yeah. Sashiko? Yeah. Chainstitch embroidery? Yeah. Union Specials? Yeah. Period correct Big E patches? Yeah!

They go hard when it comes to your jeans but it’s not hard to get things taken care of usually within two weeks. No waitlist. No judgement. Just your jeans-- better. By mail or drop-off in St. Paul, MN. @Sciencendkindness on instagram to see our work, scienceandkindness.net for an estimate or to get started. A free chainstitch hem and repair/service discounts for all Heddels+ members. Science and Kindness — Less Yikes.

Etc. etc., I can't wait for both of us to listen to it. Also, join Heddels+ and shop at the Heddels Shop!

Listen to the full episode on Heddels+:

http://heddels.plus

When you get on a plane, are you dressing for yourself? For your fellow passengers? Or for a certain Washington Post op-ed writer? We dive into the airplane dress code debate and the validity of all dress codes in general.

We also discuss the multitude of items in the Wachowski's prop auction and our picks for best general releases, including:

• Birkenstock Boston
• Nike Blazer
• Reebok Club C or Reebok Leather Original
• Nike Cortez
• Adidas Samba
• Jordan 1 Low
• 990 series
• Adidas Campus 80s
• Gazelles
• Reebok Beatniks

Send us your picks for the best general releases at blowout@heddels.com.

• Blluemade’s bucket hat in steel blue linen
• Kapital’s Old Man and the Sea Bucket Hat
• Propper ripstop boonie hat
• And Wander pe-co hat
• Universal Works seersucker bucket hat

Plus we discuss the horrifying consumerism of one Orange County brand director.

Join Heddels+ and shop at Heddels Shop, Le Laboureur is back and 10% off with code BLOWOUT!

Hear the full episode on Heddels+:

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Cat's out of the bag! I (David) am planning an extensive six month trip through Europe and Asia for the latter half of this year. I'm going to ride as many trains and eat as many weird things as I possibly can (more on this to come in future articles), but how does one pack for being continuously mobile across 30+ countries, climates, and time zones? Reed and Albert help me sort through the good, bad, and ugly that will and won't fit into my bag.

We also discuss the origins of the returning bell bottom trend and the bell.b0ys of Tiktok leading the vanguard.

On the mean streets of San Francisco, one garment is ready to tear the entire city apart:  the Patagonia fleece vest. What you wear is often the first thing you can say to the world, and in the Bay, the vest is an extremely loaded statement. We get into Bobby Allyn's NPR piece about the agony and the ecstasy of going vested in San Francisco.

We also discuss the following:

• Knickerbocker x Kleman Dimori Sandal
• North Face Purple Label Mountain Field Pants
• Unique Garment Urban Type 2
• Burgus Plus Overdyed Hoodie

Remember to join Heddels+ if you haven't already and visit the Heddels Shop, as always, 10% off with code BLOWOUT.

Hear the full episode on Heddels+:

http://heddels.plus

How old were you when you had your first job? Hopefully it was older than what's showing on Nike's interactive production map, where the average age of some country's factories is listed at 15. Have a look at their interactive map. [UPDATE 4/7/22: Nike has addressed what they're calling a "data error" and the information on the map has changed since recording and no countries currently list an average age below 20.]

We also dive into our Spring/Summer trend predictions, so buy up your alt-Crocs models early!

Be sure to check out the Heddels Shop and join Heddels+ for more Blowout.

Listen to the full episode on Heddels+:

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It's been a minute since we've gone deep on product so we thought we could catch up and catch up in style with a whole episode devoted to our product picks and misses (with a short aside on Victorian era crotchless underpants). We get into the following:

• Burgus Plus Ripstop Cargo Pants - Leopard
• Viberg Wholecut Derby Boot - Taupe Horsebutt
• Epperson Mountaineering - Large Climb Tote w/ Vintage NASA Patch - Clay
• Master-piece Potential V3 Waist Bag Black
• The Rite Stuff Atlas Salt & Pepper Work Shirt (Cedar)
• Iron Heart POLARTEC® Fleece Vest - Black
• Loewe Distressed Denim Shoes
• Le Laboureur Cape de Berger
• Scott Fraser Collection High-Waisted Denim Jeans
• Corridor Space Dye Cardigan in Sunset

Also check out the Heddels Shop, 10% off with code BLOWOUT.

A few weeks ago we had a discussion about Burberry’s use of Wehrmacht-esque Nazi camoflauge patterns in their winter collection and that put me back in touch with Charles McFarlane, who is one of the most well informed individuals I know on all things military uniforms. Charles is a second-year masters student in Costume Studies at NYU, whose research focuses on the intersection of military uniforms and popular fashion and the soldier as a consumer of fashion. He has also been a contributor at GQ, Put This On, Gear Patrol, Heddels, and his own substack Combat Threads.

We had the opportunity to discuss the origins of camo, some of the patterns you'd most likely want to avoid, and how to get a start in collecting and wearing military clothing in your wardrobe.

Join Heddels+ and shop at Heddels Shop, 10% off with code BLOWOUT>

Listen to the episode above, sign up for Heddels+, and get 10% off at the Heddels Shop with the code BLOWOUT.

Listen to the full episode at Heddels+:

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A vibe shift is coming, are you prepared? Reed and David dissect the idea of a "vibe shift" and the previous vibes we have experienced in the last 20 years while riffing off of a recent New York Magazine article.

*Spoiler alert: if you're listening to this, you probably didn't survive the last vibe shift.

Hear the full episode and much more on Heddels+:

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If you own a tote bag and have my phone number, chances are you have texted me about a new PBS documentary that just released this week. I’m of course talking about “Riveted: The History of Jeans”, the latest in PBS’s “American Experience” series directed by Michael Bicks and Anna Lee Strachan. The documentary traces indigo twill cloth from its origins in Northern Africa, Italy, and France in the late Renaissance through the American enslaved peoples, gold miners, biker gangs, high fashion, and hip hop. We all watched it and I guess my gut reaction is it was good but they could’ve talked more about Taco Bell.

We get into that as well as the rebirth, or lack thereof, of Brooks Bros. and J.Crew in a recent GQ article. Find all that and more on this week's episode.

Get 10% off your order at the Heddels Shop with the code BLOWOUT, and join Heddels+ for even more Blowout episodes!

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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Inadvertently or not, Carhartt has waded into the culture war with a recently leaked memo saying they're going to maintain their company vaccine mandate after the Supreme Court struck down OSHA's federal mandate for employers. We discuss the efficacy of burning bought and paid for items for a political end and the cynicism inherent in being a brand making statements to begin with. Also Albert discusses some tiktok #drama about the ethics of buying dupes. All that and more on Heddels+!

To pick up the newest release from G-Star, you just have to renounce all of your worldly possessions. We've got discussion of denim monk habits, including what other religious brand collabs we'd like to see, plus another brand (Aime Leon Dore) being sacrificed on the altar of global capital. We also go deep on a few products:

• Shaggy Melton Wool CPO Sloppy Shirt Coat - Black
• Vague Watch Company Every-One “Explorers” Automatic Watch
• Hikers Suspender Things

Subscribe to Heddels Plus, shop at Heddels Shop, and email us at blowout@heddels.com.

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New York state could pass the most comprehensive and impactful fashion transparency bill in history and a man supposedly owes Santoni $7,000 for a pair of Oxfords gone awry. We've got that plus trying to figure out how I can hurt myself with food for my birthday. (Yes, those are all real shoes from the Santoni website.)

And don't forget, all listeners get 10% off at the Heddels Shop with code BLOWOUT.

I hope you got something good for the holidays, because New Balance got a federal lawsuit. The Boston-based shoemaker is being sued for false advertising that their "Made in USA" line of sneakers isn't entirely made in USA per the Federal Trade Commissions guidelines. We look into what 70% of a shoe could entail, talk about our holiday hauls, and play "Is it too costumey?" on a fresh edition of product talk:

• Freenote Cloth Western Rambler Shirt
• Pendleton Wool Zip up Sweater
• Post O’alls Craftmaster 3 Ikat Indigo Pullover

Check out the Heddels Shop and consider joining Heddels Plus if you haven't already!

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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In the pantheon of classic denim movies, we all know "Rebel Without a Cause", "The Wild One", "The Outsiders", etc. but there's room for one more: the 1996 classic Jackie Chan romp "Rumble in the Bronx". No costumer would take credit for the outfits seen on screen, but there sure are a lot of them. Hear how this little Hong Kong/Canadian production promoted Jackie Chan to worldwide stardom in a sexy union suit.

• California Diner Roll Returns: Barns Cozun Sweat Parka
• Yuks Type 1 Moccasin F OG Brown
• Alaska Sleeping Bag Viking Safari Jacket
• Kapital Snowflake Denim

Subscribe for more of this at Heddels+, get 10% your Heddels Shop order with code BLOWOUT (look for new Stan Ray and Columbiaknit soon), and email us at blowout@heddels.com call us at ‪(720) 675-7098‬.

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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While there were many deals this past week, there were also STEALS! We're of course talking about the shoplifting mania that's sweeping the nation (and how for the most part it doesn't exist). We also discuss our respective Black Friday hauls and remember Virgil Abloh after his untimely passing.

• Anonymous Ism Sweaters
• Quoddy Ring Boots
• TCB 40s Jeans
• And much more!

We also answer a listener question on our "desert island" brands. If you have a question or comment, email us at blowout@heddels.com or call us at ‪(720) 675-7098‬. Also, join Heddels+ and visit Heddels Shop, our 20% off everything Black Friday sale runs through Monday 11/29 and we've got new Solovair in the shop!

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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We live in an age of unprecedented choice. Whether it's jeans, hair conditioner, or marinara sauce; the western consumer has a skull crushing variety of options to choose from. But is that a good thing? The New York Times seems ambivalent and so are we. We discuss their piece "Is Denim Having an Identity Crisis" as well as Thanksgiving fits, the necessity of shampoo (it's not necessary), and these weird Margaret Howell house socks.

Use the code TODAYISNTFRIDAY for an early 20% off everything in the Heddels Shop before our Black Friday sale goes live on Wednesday.

• Heimat Knits
• RRL Ackworth suede jacket
• William Ellery

Join Heddels+, shop at Heddels Shop, email us at blowout@heddels.com, call us at ‪(720) 675-7098‬. Also follow Alden Wicker on Twitter.

To hear the full episode, join Heddels+:

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It's the midseason blues and Ralph Lauren's answer to it is letting people dye whatever they want in store. That is also far from the most ridiculous product concept we have today because this is the return of PR Plop! Our series where we dive into the best of the worst of the PR emails we receive. We've got NSFW NFTs, "The Peloton of the Kitchen", virtual clothing and more!

• The Real McCoy's MC18122 Waffle Thermal Long John Underwear Black
• Raleigh Denim Jones OGMP
• KAPITAL NO. K2109LP102 COW FLEECE PULLOVER

Support the show by joining Heddels+ or by visiting the Heddels Shop and using the code BLOWOUT for 10% off your order. Email us at blowout@heddels.com or call us at ‪(720) 675-7098‬.

Listen to the full episode on Heddels+:

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Have you ever had a particularly rough day at work and thought, “You know what would make me feel better? Buying a pair of Ferragamos and a Moncler jacket while on my way to the bathroom.” Well this could soon be your reality! We dig into the transformation of one of the retails most exclusive names into another coworking space.

Also discussion of the following:

• Potent Poten Hats full of Potential
• Howlin' Pretzel Sweater
• Whitesville Wool Melton Award Jackets

As always 10% off at Heddels Shop with code BLOWOUT, email us at blowout@heddels.com.

• Blue Blue Japan x Fruit of the Loom
• Nigel Cabourn x Vans Vault
• William Gibson x Buzz Rickson’s Fishtail Parka

Support the show by joining Heddels+ and visiting the Heddels Shop, 10% with the code BLOWOUT.

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As you may have noticed, global supply chains are a little wonky, to put it mildly, and this could affect everything from your new phone to toy Tonka trucks. Basically when everything shut down in the spring of 2020, it didn’t start up at the same time and this incredibly precarious global supply chain we have basically went out of balance and now has the speed wobbles as it’s doing 110 on the highway.

We also update the Space Force uniform controversy, discuss some product, and go on a long tangent on chain restaurants. We also got another voicemail!

As always, 10% off for listeners at the Heddels Shop with the code BLOWOUT.