Trail and Errors

One day from Snoqualmie, so you not what to expect - lots of talk about food. It is however, an unusual pre town day as Snoqualmie is set to be the last town stop before the end of the trail. Naturally there are mixed feelings about this. The journey is coming to a close and with it are the excitements of home and rest, but this has been their lives for the last 6 months, a unique and extraordinary life, one not so easily put to one side. These emotions are heard throughout the episode as Ethan, Molly and the gang face this reality for the first time, being now 2 weeks from Canada.  

Leaving Mt Rainier behind, Molly and Ethan plod their way through yet another burnt woodland but this time, from the fertile soils sprout small clusters of strawberries - not quite the selection at Sainsbury's but a delightful treat for the eyes if anything. This landscape of recovering shrub dominates the day which remains hot despite the grey cloud cover looming overhead. There is a random encounter involving a minor "PCT celebrity" - OTC - and a gamble between a spring water supply and rumoured trail magic. 

The team pass through a tourist hotspot as it draws close to the Labor Day national holiday. The usually quiet and thru-hiker occupied territory of the PCT is shared with countless national and international day hikers enjoying the trails around Mt Rainier. That said, much of the day is spent in mists, including yet another delightful pause for trail magic but, shortly after, the sun breaks through with a vengeance turning the previously damp day into a scorcher. The group swim in lakes, converse with passers by and share PCT anthems, written along the journey.  

One of those days; not a bad day but, just one of those ya know? 

Following the explosion of beauty the day before at Knifes Edge, we dive into forests on a day of drizzle. It is beautiful and wild, but quiet. Lethargy sinks it's claws in. The day was taken easy, with lunch beside alpine lakes, talks of possible wolf sightings, crashing at the end with a very exciting food review.

In the Goat Rocks Wilderness, the PCT splits. You can take the original route or an alternative. Frankly, you'd be a fool not to take the alternative. Knife's Edge remains the most beautiful section of all 2,650 miles of the trail for us. This episode hopefully showcases that with a lot of ambient audio, "Wow"s and the occasional f-bomb of delight. There isn't much else to say really. Listen and enjoy. 

Having skirted around Mt Adams, the dynamic duo press on with their eyes set firmly on the Goat Rocks Wilderness - said to be one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trail. The team discuss their favourite town stops so far, find themselves in awe by the beauty of Cispus pass, attempt once again to communicate with Pikas and generally enjoys the days hike in gorgeous weather and surroundings. They finish the day camping in what is possibly the most amazing camp spot thus far with near 360 views of Washingtons most iconic mountains on a clear evening. They are a stones through from Knives Edge - the main piece for the day to come. 

As they leave the area of Trout Lake, saying goodbye once more to old friends, Molly and Ethan begin to skirt the more recognisable mountains of the Washington Cascades. Mt Adams and the rest lie in wait.

A promise of a little trail magic turns into an overdose. On a day already fitted with a scheduled town stop, the team are spoilt as they come across 3 stations of trail magic along the way. French toast, pork chops, chocolates and mimosas fuel the march to Trout Lake which itself delivers blueberry pies, burgers and long lost trail families. A long conversation is shared with Prometheus and Not A Minor by campfire outside of town, featuring discussions about managing a relationship on trail, bear encounters, devil deer and more. 

A disjointed sound fest of us eating, mumbling and summarising. We hope you still enjoy. 

The gang continue their walk up the multi mile slope upon which they camped. Its a morning slog, but whilst resting on its peak a SOBO hiker delivers news of magic on the trail. This is where lunch and much of this episode is spent. Amongst casual conversation excitement and anticipation of Trout Lake, due the following day, continues to build but more news from SOBO hikers of even more magic makes the next day as exciting as Christmas. 

Ah, Washington; the forests, the ferns and of course the non-stop up hill struggle. 

It's a sweaty welcome to the new state but the milestone of yesterday pushes Molly and Ethan up the hills and rolls them down the other side. Ethan is attacked by a wasp, the team reflect on hitch hikes of the past and the prospect of restaurant food at Trout lake lingers on the tip of our tongues.

Another milestone crossed in this episode as Molly and Ethan cross the final US state border into Washington via the Bridge of the Gods, but first they must tick off the last few miles of Oregon in variable weather, and complete the U of the Columbia River valley. Oregon sends them packing with one last night of rain, but the promise of town and food in the form of Cascade Locks keeps their spirits from being dampened and spurs them on across the famed bridge into the state that marks the beginning of the end. 

A long and emotional episode. 

Molly and Ethan, eager to meet his parents at Timberline lodge, press on through the humid forests of north Oregon, along the edges of Timothy Lake, to the slopes of Mt Hood. Along the way, Ethan goes through waves of anticipation as the day he's been longing for comes to reality but, when it finally arrives, nothing could be sweeter. 

The end is near, but a taste of home is needed to push them through. 

Spanning days 141 and 142, this episode sees Molly and Ethan hike from Big Lake Youth Camp to beyond Ollalie Lake. Along the way, they surpass the 2000 mile mark and reflect on the miles as well as the pride they feel for having come so far. Having skirted around Mt Jefferson, they finally get views of Mt Hood in the distance; their future destination and the spot of a well needed two days zero. Along the lakeside of Ollalie they are treated to magic in the form of homemade Mexican food delivered by some of the most kind and generous trail angels yet but have to peel themselves away from the treat to find a little spot for camp to one side of the trail. Only one more whole day of hiking before Ethan's parents meet them at Timberline Lodge. Excitement is in the air.

A day of obsidian, waterfalls, lava fields and mountains awaits your ears in this episode. The team leave behind the Three Sisters and their volcanic wake on their way to Big Lake Youth Camp where a thrifty resupply proves useful for the coming days ahead.

An early and cold morning kept the mosquitoes at bay as our duo left the shores of Stormy Lake. After a day of monotonous woodland, Ethan was hoping for open views and possibly glimpses of the Three Sisters as they etched their way through the wilderness dedicated to those volcanic mountains. Great progress was made by lunch and, come evening, Molly and Ethan found themselves staring up at the red volcanic slopes of what was surely one of the great Sisters. As the evening light cast itself upon the meadows and forest around them, they settled for camp at the base of the Sister (possibly Middle, though equally possibly Southern) surrounded by south-bound and day hikers attracted to the spot for the exact same reasons. 

Ethan and Molly wake up to the tail end of the storm that thundered down on them the previous evening. Trudging through the mud and wet bush, they head towards Shelter Cove - a small lakeside campsite with a shop, restaurant and possible accommodation in the face of worsening conditions. Indeed the weather did not let up and Shelter Cove proved to be an ideal stop. The next morning brought clearer skies and dried kit. Our dynamic duo monopolised on these favourable conditions achieving a 29-mile day through the relatively flat green tunnel to yet another lake called Stormy. Though both days didn't bring much in the way of wild beauty, having entered the Three Sisters Wilderness the days to come were aligned to make up for it. 

The day before wasn't the most entertaining day for the guys. To entertain themselves they played a little game known as "Snog, Marry or Kill". The subject of said game? Just three of histories well-known Gods. Well, they learnt their lesson on route towards Shelter Cove when the God left for dead took his vengeance. Join the gang as they find themselves in the grip of a storm which culminates in thunderous claps of lightning and "hailstones the size of walnuts" as they traverse a high ridgeline. 

Despite warning signs, Molly and Ethan survive a night without disturbance from Mountain Lions. Legs and limbs still intact, they start the days hike around the rim of Crater Lake, admiring its beauty in the morning light. The day ahead is full of long dry stretches so the dynamic duo make the most of water caches left by trail angels along the way. The trail meanders back to the green tunnel, though large stretches pass through diseased and dying woodlands, providing little distraction from the stifling heat. Eventually, they reach the base of Mt Theilsen - a jagged peak of red and yellow banned rock - where they come across their friend Cheese Grater whose suffering from multiple stress fractures, and may need to come off-trail as a consequence. After a brief stop at a river passing down from the mountain, Molly and Ethan find a good camping spot among the forest just a few miles from Oregons highest point on the PCT.

Molly and Ethan wake to a mosquito soup in the air and, as a consequence, charge through the morning miles on their way to Crater Lake. Crater Lake has been high on their "sights to see" list and they are buzzing to have finally reached it. The trail cuts through burn areas whose skeletal trees are populated by woodpeckers and the air is alive with the hum of crickets. They reconvene with several friends at Mazama Village; Will, Audrey, Mike, Miles, Matt, Trouble and Cheeks, and enjoy a well-deserved lunch/dinner at a campsite resturant after achieving 20+ miles by early afternoon. Following a side trail, they proceed up to the Crater Lake Rim Walk through more clouds of mosquitos and are absolutely dazzled by the beauty of the lake. After a good rest admiring the view, our duo finds camp off-trail along the rim. Before heading to sleep they discuss recent warnings of Mountain Lion activity around their campsite. 

A cheerful Ethan greets us this morning, but Molly is struggling with a blister on her foot that has required some intervention. Feeling better after 'leeching' it they head out into the green tunnel of the forest, plagued by swarms of mosquitos in the still, humid air. Water is a bit of an issue today, with 11 miles between each of the sources they plan to stop at. The day is overcast, so heat is less of a problem but the air is heavy. Eventually they emerge from the tunnel out onto a ridge where they have views across the wooded valleys and the breeze keeps the mozzies at bay. A final push up and over a hill gets them thinking about reaching the famous Crater Lake tomorrow with the opportunity of a restaurant stop in Mazama Village. Episode 115 of Trail & Errors :)

Although there was thunder rolling around overnight there wasn't much rain to disturb their sleep, instead it was animal noises that spooked 'Spook' during the night. The morning sees them keen to get back to a normal on-trail routine away from the distractions of town. Deers greet them on the path, and it is cool and quiet in the forest as they approach Plumb Landing Camp where there is a tap and a flushing loo! It is a lovely setting with Hyatt Lake glinting through the trees. Moving on to South Brown Mountain Shelter, one of only 3 huts on the entire trail, they link up with some fellow Brits collecting water from the pump there. It is hot and dry, and the water sources are surprisingly sparse, so they collectively decide to push another 10 miles to the next one so that they can camp near water for cooking and the next morning's routine. It's a volcanic landscape they are in, with old lava flows spreading across the trail and down into the forests below. A graded red-rocked trail cuts across these boulder filled sections. Berries are beginning to bud, and Ethan is looking forward to the trail treats that they will eventually provide. Their feet hurt after this 29 mile day, but they bed down in good spirits after a full day on the PCT. Episode 114 of Trail & Errors... :)

A more regular start to the trail after their stressful departure from Ashland yesterday, they head out under a hot sky towards Pilot Rock. Molly soon discovers that you can't breathe, eat, and walk simultaneously. Their calculations indicate that their current 25 mpd pace is sufficient as they head through Oregon proper, but having had the state line as a target for so long they need to re-establish their motivational goals for the next section. Oregon has a few ranches and tourist spots near the trail, but no big hiker-orientated supply points, so they have packed out 10 days worth of food and they feel the extra weight in their packs. Nearing the dramatic outline of Pilot Rock standing clear on a ridgeline Ethan is hopeful of spotting Peregrine Falcons, known to favour the high aspect of the rock overlooking the forested valleys below, and indeed when they get there they can see all the way back to Mt Shasta in the distance. Dragonflies abound during lunch, and after a break in a quiet meadow it is hot and dry on the trail and feels thunderous. Soon enough the clouds build and the storms threaten, but nothing dramatic results. They camp near the pretty Hyatt Lake, and think ahead to the dramatic Crater Lake that they will reach in a few days. A good day in trail in Episode 113 of Trail & Errors... :)

It's Day 130, and after a well earned Zero in the super nice town of Ashland the guys are keen to get back on the trail. Beers at the Standing Stone Brewery, Thai food, socks, shorts, resupply logistics, shopping; it all takes ages, especially when the Wi-Fi in America is generally so rubbish everywhere, why is that??? Frustrating for Molly particularly, who gets easily frazzled and overwhelmed with the busy environment of the city. Luckily they have a local trail angel, Mike, who is at the ready to shuttle them around town as they undertake their various chores. Eventually they are ready to get to trail, and they give Mike as shout, however a slight miscalculation results in them being dropped 17 miles away from where they need to be, after driving an hour down a small forest road! Luckily, by our coincidence, they are rescued by Nellie's parents who just happen to be collecting her there from the trail, and they get a lift an hour back where they came from and eventually rejoin the PCT near Callahan's Lodge. However it is now 7.30pm, Molly has lost a sock, and Ashland will always be remembered for having the most stressful departing experience rather than for the excellent Zero day that they spent there. Tomorrow can only be better... Episode 112 of Trail & Errors.

It's a town day, and after a month without a break the guys are looking forward to taking a couple of nights in a motel and having a Zero day tomorrow. There's still 19 miles to go to get to Ashland, and it's another hot one. Realising they've not washed their clothes for 400 miles they are keen to find a laundromat when they get there! They calculate that they have about 48-49 days left to complete the next two states, which is mad when it has taken them 127 days to get through California. They head up a steep climb before a long descent to Callahan's Lodge at the I-5, from where they can hitch to Ashland. Halfway up the hill they get news of a waiting cooler full of sodas at the top; this news helps them finish the climb and they relax in the shade with a cool drink. Hearing the cars on the interstate as they near the road, they decide to have lunch at Callahan's Lodge, and afterwards make contact with Eddie, a Trail Angel from Ashland, who comes and takes them into town. Checking in at the Ashland Motel they dump their bags, plan on a shower, a visit to Safeway, and a curry for dinner. Day 128 ends well, and Oregon so far is a pleasant experience. Episode 111 of Trail & Errors :)

It's a slightly disorganised morning as they pack up camp; the realisation that they are about to enter a new state makes Ethan rush to get on the trail and his de-camping routine suffers. Their spirits aren't dampened though, and they make good miles on a swift trail along ridgelines and through flowered meadows to the border. Stopping for water, they link up with other hikers making the crossing today, and they are all keen to be finished with California. They've been in the same state now for 4 months, and the thought of something new and the rumours of a flatter easier trail through Oregon is an incentive for them to push for their first 30+ mile day, though their first steps over the state line are up a steep climb! Ashland will be their first town stop tomorrow, 20 miles away, but they hear that accommodation is tough to find as the famous Shakespeare festival has all the hotels booked this weekend, but with some internet searching by family back home they manage to secure a booking. Pushing on past 30 miles they set up camp dreaming of reaching Ashland for a 2 night stop and their first full Zero day in over a month... Episode 110 of Trail & Errors.

After the many ups and downs of yesterday, the focus of today is one big down followed by a massive up; the Devil's Climb... It's a hot day as they start the 14 miles downhill to Seaid Valley, but the thought of milkshakes at the cafe there and the proximity of Oregon tomorrow keeps the guys moving. Bushwacking past Grider Creek they reach the valley floor and the PCT joins a dirt road to town. They are rewarded this morning with copious blackberries growing alongside the trail, which has them dreaming of Tiffy's (Molly's grandmother) apple & blackberry crumble...mmmm. Hot and sunny as they hit the road out of town and begin the 8 mile, 5,000ft ascent out of the valley; more than comparable to some of the passes in the Sierra. Ethan reaches the top complaining that it is the 'most uncomfortable he has ever been', thanks to the sweat which is overwhelming. As other hikers gather to rest at the top they take a break and discuss many aspects of life in America, before walking into the evening with lovely views of a pale purple sky as the sun sets on a successfully completed 24 mile challenging day. Oregon beckons; Episode 109 of Trail & Errors.

A beautiful sunrise to start the day, and the path is tougher than expected as they move towards Seaid Valley. The first hill of the day is steep, and they will be going up and down along ridgelines all day, eventually beginning the 21 miles of trail that winds down to the valley floor. Passing through a gap between two mountain shoulders Ethan is plagued by bees and wasps and other buzzing annoyances as he collects water in the shade, but there are plenty of beautiful flowered meadows and long distant views to keep the eyes interested. Molly's feet are hurting, and showing significant signs of wear and tear, though nothing that can't be overcome. They both smell awful, and trying to keep their socks in any kind of reasonable shape is a topic for discussion. Up and down again all afternoon, and as they start the long route down to Seaid Valley there are limited camping spots on the steep terrain and everyone is aiming for the same site halfway down the descent. Ethan takes a tumble as they near the campsite, where they are able to soak their aching feet in an icy stream whilst trying to stop the deer from stealing their hiking poles. They are glad to finish what has been a hard days hiking on the PCT. 14.3 miles to go until a milkshake! Episode 108 of Trail & Errors :)

Waking to birdsong in the town park at Etna, the guys are pleased to have stopped in such a nice town. Breakfast at Bob's Ranch House, a few more supplies bought, and then an excellent lunch at Denny Bar Company has them feeling full and happy as they walk through Etna to the road out of town. The fires that have been noticeable in the air are far to the north and not affecting the trail as yet. They get distracted by a whistle as they make their to the hitching point; Tom & Crane beckon them over and they waste a pleasant hour catching up on trail news with their old friends at their B&B. A nice hitch follows, again in a pickup but this time a more sedate journey with a dog named Pretzel. Planning ahead to reach Oregon by the end of July, they're aware of the 'Devil's Climb' that they will have to tackle coming out of Seiad Valley in two days time. The trail is very scenic, and is supposed to be very pretty from here to the border. A breeze dissipates the smoke and they can see glimpses of Mt Shasta. A productive day on the trail in Episode 107 of Trail & Errors :)

Another bright morning on the trail, although the battle with mosquitos is one they're destined to lose. As they climb the first of the days hills there is a haze on the horizon and an acrid smell that can mean only one thing - forest fires. Each year the western states of the USA suffer from sometimes catastrophic fires, and most years at least part of the PCT is closed, forcing detours and long road walks to avoid affected sections of the trail; will this year be any different? They plan to hike almost 28 miles to Etna today, their last opportunity for a resupply before Oregon! Up & down all day today, and their concerns about fires are reinforced as they walk through burnt sections of woodland completely exposed to the heat of the day. Smoke lingers down in the valley and is trapped in the more distant trees, but the presence of day hikers indicates that they are nearing town. A fairly reckless ride into town, a visit to the Dollar General, and a burger at Dottie's later they are camped in the town park at Etna thinking about finally getting to Oregon. Episode 106 of Trail & Errors :)

Another good nights sleep on the trail, though the morning is plagued with mosquitos. Somewhat overcast, Ethan is hoping that the cloud cover will keep the temperature down, but it soon burns off and it is another hot day in Northern California. Setting out along the rolling ridge lines they are pleased that the views today are better, with some dramatic vistas out to the horizon and sightings of Mt Shasta from time to time. Molly is particularly taken by the vibrancy of the flowers they are now seeing in the meadows, rather than the scrubby bushes of previous open areas. Entering Klamath National Forest with the PCT sign peppered with bullet holes as normal (they do enjoy shooting things here!) they make a 1/4 mile detour from the trail to a campsite with picnic tables for lunch; not having to eat on the ground is a worthwhile deviation. The disappointment of another campsite with no Trail Magic is soon forgotten when they bump into their old friend Nellie! She's on a mission to get to Ashland where she has to leave the trail to attend Med school, but they have time to catch up before she speeds off on her 40-mile hike for the day.  The day ends along a beautiful red-rock trail with great views and even a patch of snow. A brilliant day of steady walking at a relaxed pace. The town of Etna beckons tomorrow perhaps, where there are a couple of famous places to get a burger... Episode 105 of Trail & Errors :)

The views this morning are no less beautiful, with the sunlight bathing Mt Shasta and Castle Crags in its soft light as the guys pack up for the day ahead. Was that the best campsite thus far? Hopeful to be blessed with continued good views from the trail, they move on through flowery meadows towards Toad Lake. The trail takes a big arc southwards (!) then west, north, and finally east around Mt Shasta for the next couple of hundred miles until Ashland in Oregon. Walking along ridgelines the views are great and the gradient is kind, but motivation is tough and they really want to stop and nap. Every time they pause bees gather on their legs, presumably enjoying the sweat, although today is a much better temperature. The trail is popular with day hikers and campers enjoying the nearby lakes and fishing spots. Ethan realises his parents will have arrived in Seattle, though it will be another month before they meet up on the trail. A leisurely stroll through the Trinity Alps in Episode 104 of Trail & Errors. 

Taking in the two days in and out of Dunsmuir, episode 103 begins with the team heading towards Interstate 5 to hitch into town. Ethan is excited as he's due to pick up some new shoes from the post office, he needs them after 800 miles on his current pair through the Sierra! They calculate that they can make it to Canada before their visas expire with a solid 20+ mile a day average, especially as Oregon is looming and is renown for being an easier trail. Past the 1500 mile marker, they remark on how much easier it is to do big days now; 25 miles is straightforward, at the beginning of the PCT 20 miles was a stretch! They can hear I5 in the distance, but as they approach it is unclear where to hitch from as it is very quiet and they can't hitchhike on the interstate itself. They do get a ride, and immediately head to the famous Yaks for some super burgers. Of course they end up staying all day, and get a cute cabin at Cave Springs Motel. The following day after breakfast at the excellent Wheelhouse the hotel owner kindly gives them a ride back to trail, thanks Louie! They want to do as many miles as possible, but they have a 5,000ft climb to tend with. Moving out of the woods they have stunning views of Castle Crags when they take a break at Disappearing Creek and enjoy the mango they've packed out from town. Heading towards what is rumoured to be the most beautiful campsite on trail they are rewarded with a prime spot facing Mt Shasta and Castle Crags as the sun sheds its fading pink light on the scenery. Check out the pictures at trailanderrors.com, & enjoy hearing about it all in Episode 103 of the Trail & Errors podcast :)

Waking up next to Butcher Knife Creek with their own private beach after a good nights sleep sees the guys in high spirits as they head out through dense woodland. They've recovered well overnight, except for Molly's bee sting from yesterday which is swollen and annoying. They move down the trail towards McCloud River, and have wonderful bear encounter with a beautiful cinnamon coloured female. The trail is hard and dusty, and overgrown with poison oak, which they do their best to avoid. They bump into old friends at lunch, and catch up on gossip from elsewhere on the trail. Squaw Valley Creek offers respite from the heat of the day, and they stop for a lovely swim. Early evening sees them leave the 'green tunnel' of trees and emerge with views of Mt Shasta and Castle Crags. Thinking about their town visit tomorrow to Dunsmuir, they are hoping for the opportunity for a wash and a rest, and of course a load of food! Hiding in their tent from the mosquitos, day 118 ends in episode 102 of Trail & Errors.

Day 117 and the team wake beneath another cloudless sky after a really good nights sleep. Well rested and feeling energised they head out through the woods with occasional glimpses of Mt Shasta looming overhead. The views intensify as they move out of the trees onto exposed ridge lines, where the landscape is laid out beneath them like a map, with views out to the horizon where they can see all the way back to Mt Lassen and marvel at how far they've walked. Bees are buzzing aplenty amongst the flowering shrubs, and after lunch and a nap the miles come easy despite the heat. After a solid 24 miles hiked they stop early and camp in a bucolic setting next a stream, where they wash their tired feet and are astounded at how dirty they've become. A satisfying day on trail, they're in bed at 7.45pm thinking of their next town stop in Dunsmuir the day after tomorrow. Episode 101 of Trail & Errors :)

An exciting day on the trail; first up is Burney Falls, which is magnificent to view up close and tempts them with the opportunity for a swim, but it is a bit too cold this early in the morning. A big climb follows, taking them back up to 6,000ft elevation through woodland and the occasional flowered meadow. Ethan sees a bear! This is the cause of much excitement as it's their first encounter, although unfortunately Molly doesn't get to see it herself. Shortly afterwards they meet a rattlesnake which is reminiscent of the time in Southern California that Ethan got stuck on the path with a stubborn reptile that wouldn't move. They take a nap beneath some trees before carrying on along a nicely graded trail with easy walking; it's nice when you don't need to concentrate on navigation or footing and can relax and take in the surroundings. They come across some PCTA volunteers working hard to keep the trail clear as it is very overgrown in places and requires some head-down bushwhacking. They emerge from this overgrown section with stunning views of Mt Shasta sitting proud in the distance, now much closer and still a target to be aimed for.  After Dunsmuir in a couple of days they'll actually head southwards to skirt around its western flank. Another bear for Ethan, this time a big one with 4 little cubs; a slightly more nerve-wracking experience but nothing too dramatic. A beautiful evening with the sun setting beyond Mt Shasta sees them bed down with some other hikers after a long satisfying day on the trail. Episode 100 of Trail & Errors :)

Starting high on the Hat Creek Rim escarpment at Cache 22, today Molly & Ethan drop down to the heat of the valley floor where they have a 13 mile dry stretch along a hard but flat trail. The broken lava they're walking on is tough on Ethan's feet, and he is keen for his new shoes in 100 miles or so. The heat is extreme, but they have a treat today as they stop at Burney Mountain Guest Ranch just after lunch, which is only just off the trail, for water, shade, rest, and supplies at their well-stocked little hiker store. Water is still a problem in the afternoon as they move on towards the famous Burney Falls, which they plan to visit tomorrow. A longer day than planned sees them bed down in a well-populated campground with weekend visitors also planning to see the cascade in the morning; Episode 99 of Trail & Errors.

Despite their noisy neighbours this morning, Molly & Ethan hit the trail in good humour, preparing themselves for the dry stretches of trail over the next few days. They moves through the remnants of the 'Redding' fire, now a few years old but its devastation is evident. Hat Creek Rim is ahead, but before they climb the escarpment they stop in at JJ's Cafe just off the trail at Old Station; they highly recommend a visit! Once up on the rim the geology is unique; flat out to their east as far as they can see, Mount Lassen behind them rising in the sky, a drop of several hundred feet to their left down to another flat plain stretching away to the horizon, where they now see Mt Shasta rising prominently in the distance. They will walk within its presence for the next few weeks all the way into Oregon. They like having a marker behind them (Mt Lassen) so they can see how far they've come, and a target in front of them (Mt Shasta) that they can aim for. The views off of Hat Creek Rim are amazing. Past seemingly extra large cows that are a bit intimidating they head towards a reliable water cache at Road 22, where they camp with the trail family they met at Draksbad yesterday. An awesome day, 28 miles along a good trail with great scenery, enjoy Episode 98 of Trail & Errors :)

Another good night's sleep, and team EthaMol are ready for the day. With Lassen National Park ahead, they will be forced to hike all the way through the park as they no longer have their bear canisters, so it will be 25 miles to their next campsite. An added distraction is the $15 all you can eat buffet mid-way through the park at the Draksbad Guest Ranch which they plan to indulge in. As they are running early there is a quick side trip to Terminal Geyser, and then Boiling Lake; both of which attest to the volcanic nature of this part of California. Reaching the guest ranch they are able to use the pool before lunch, where they join the other hikers escaping the sun. An awesome lunch follows, before they head uphill in the building heat through stifling forests. The stillness makes the mosquitos bold, and they are ever-present. At the beautiful Upper Twin Lake they stop for a paddle, before walking through a fire-ravaged section of woodland. Water is somewhat scarce, so in anticipation of camping they fill up as they approach the park boundary. Bedding down just outside of Lassen NP it is another successful day on trail; Episode 97 of Trail & Errors. 

Covering the 2 days either side of their overnight stop in Chester, episode 96 sees the guys wake after a good sleep under clear skies looking forward to the day ahead. They both are in need of a good wash as they are caked in dirt from the dusty trail. Mt Lassen looms ahead, it's conical shape reminding them that they are in volcanic formed territory. A huge milestone is reached as they pass they mid-way point of the PCT! Only 1325 miles to go... They make it to the highway and hitch into Chester with their first stop at The Burger Depot. The next morning sees them check out of the Antler Motel, before having some Eggs Benedict at The Copper Kettle Cafe where they discuss their strategy for the rest of NorCal. New shoes collected for Molly from the post office, and new shoes ordered for Ethan, they get a fancy ride back to trail from Mustang Mike, thanks Mike! With a 19 miles section ahead where they can't camp, they plan their distances accordingly, and hike just 10 miles towards Lassen National Park. Though the scenery is picturesque, mosquitoes are ever present, and the heat is intense. They setup camp and have a bit of a heart-to-heart about motivation and mental fragility; the NorCal blues are bighting! Finishing their discussion on a positive vibe they bed down with some new ideas for their daily routine and hopes for a buffet lunch at Draksbad Ranch in the National Park part-way through the no-camping stretch tomorrow. Enjoy the highs and lows of trail life in Episode 96 of Trail & Errors.

Carrying on with the endless climb out of Belden, Ethan & Molly are targeting a stop in the town of Chester tomorrow. A slightly problematic river crossing is first up, and it continues to be a rough morning with fallen trees making the going slow and a painful bee sting adding to Ethan's woes. However as they move out of the woods the gradient eases and they can see more; birds courting, squirrels fighting, and we get a lesson about parasitic wasps. Snow appears again; what a massive winter California and the west have had this year. A lovely lunch at Cold Spring, where they bump into Sandy and Durrell and their dog Ruby; a really lovely couple who share their watermelon with our team and take their rubbish away for them; thanks guys! Ethan clarifies the differences between the various types of trees as they move verify out on to a welcomed ridgeline with a somewhat rare view ahead for a change. Their feet hurt a lot today, possibly from the long climb out of Belden but maybe from the harder volcanic rock they are now encountering on the trail as they move toward Lassen Volcanic National Park. A tough day, but mission accomplished as they find a secluded campsite and settle down for a Mac & Cheese dinner; Episode 95 of Trail & Errors.

Waking to the sound of birdsong and the buzzing of insects, especially mosquitos, today the team are faced with an extreme descent into the town of Belden in the blistering heat, followed by an equally strenuous climb out of town up the opposite side of the valley. Ethan is worried more about the downhill; although uphill is tiring the downhill affects less-used muscles, plus your feet are smashed into your shoes with each step and your knees take a battering. The day is boiling hot, but bizarrely their old friend snow makes a few very brief appearances! Out of the woods and onto the exposed ridgeline lizards abound, and they are certainly in rattlesnake territory again. Arriving in Belden they feel the physicality of the descent, but their minds are distracted by the bizarre happenings in town..the 'Camp Fuck It Up' festival is in full swing. The insane heat only adds to the sense of dysmorphia. After a very mediocre plate of nachos they move through the 'town' and look for some shade to rest before the climb; the combination of banging vibes, drugged out semi-naked revellers, roadworks and roadworkers, makes it confusing where the trail restarts and they get a bit lost in the mayhem. They laze away most of the afternoon in the shade at the historic  'Stamp Mill', before beginning the 14 mile ascent up towards Rattlesnake Creek, from where the trail flattens out a bit towards their eventual campsite at Myrtle Flat. A weird day on the trail, but 24 miles complete, in Episode 94 of Trail & Errors.

An earlier start than normal, and with food on their minds Molly & Ethan head up a steep climb with 10 miles to go before they reach the road leading to Quincy. It's hot and humid, and Ethan feels the lack of calories from his meagre breakfast. We hear about the NorCal blues; the start of the PCT through the desert is novel and exciting, the Sierra are challenging and require fortitude and strength; here in Northern California the trail is pretty (though they've seen pretty already) and not very difficult, so the challenge is mental rather than physical. They have their second breakfast after the big climb, with tremendous views out across the dense forests. Reaching the road they get a nice ride into Quincy, where they resupply at Safeway before enjoying Nachos, Burgers, & Beer at the Pangaea Cafe. They get a ride back to trail from Mike, though unfortunately Ethan leaves their groundsheet/ride sign in Mike's car! Uh oh... Back on a nice soft trail they move on to a pretty campsite where they find a spot to themselves. Hoping not to spend too long in the next town, Belden, which is right on the PCT, they bed down dreaming of their next hotel stop in Chester, three days away. Episode 93 of Trail & Errors.

After a tough day yesterday Ethan & Molly have high hopes for a better one today. A bit concerned about the need to keep their daily mileage up, they begin in a dense forest but eventually move out onto a ridge with loads of butterflies and buzzing insects (unfortunately mosquitos too). It is ironic that as they cross a forest road a car happens by and offers them a lift into Quincy, but that isn't the plan for today, so they pass on the lift but accept some PB&J (Peanut Butter & Jelly) sandwiches from Barbara & her chihuahua. Today is much more positive, and as they descend to the Middle Fork Feather River they are feeling good and looking forward to a nice campsite and a swim. The river is majestic, with a lovely bridge spanning the rapids, but they actually decide to press on for a few more miles towards Bear Creek. An even better place to camp awaits, and they enjoy a quick dip in the cold water before bedding down for the night. 26 miles down and a much happier end to day 107; Episode 92 of Trail & Errors :)

The terrain continues to change, and the daily mileage is improving; but often other hikers seem to be moving faster. Today Ethan & Molly set out to see how far they can go, not so much to push for a big distance but to see what a full day of walking results in. Although they initially descend, the day is mainly spent on high ridgelines. Passing through a large campsite they wistfully smell the bacon cooking, but the only benefit to them is the ability to dispose of their rubbish. Despite their initial positivity, their energy is low, and Molly is in discomfort. They want to be able to do 20 miles a day as a minimum; anything over that represents 'free' miles that they can use in town or for rest days. They plan to go in and out of Quincy tomorrow, then hit Chester 3 days later. Playing cat & mouse with the trail through a snow-filled dense forest, Molly is feeling homesick. As international hikers they are a long way from home, and feel very out of touch with their friends and family. Also the trail focusses the loneliness, it is difficult to distract your mind when all you are doing is hiking alone through the wilderness, despite the remarkable beauty. After a particularly sweaty climb, Ethan realises that not only has he not washed his shirt for 2 weeks, but he won't be able to wash it for another week! With his shattered shoes he is truly embracing the hiker trash appearance. A fawn and doe appear on the trail before they make camp, but it has been 'one of those days' on the PCT. A melancholic feel to Episode 91 of Trail & Errors... :/

Numb fingers this morning as the team pack up for the walk to Sierra City and beyond. It's a lovely woodland trail, but aside from birds not much wildlife; Ethan really wants to see a bear! They can see the unique formations of Sierra Buttes ahead, but first they dive a mile off trail to Sierra City for a 'gut buster' burger, and they run into their old trail friend Chef whom they haven't seen since Kennedy Meadows over a month ago! Pleased to be back on the PCT afterwards they reflect on how overwhelming civilisation is when you spend most of your time out in the sticks, though it was useful having internet access so Ethan could order some new shoes as his current pair are 'obliterated'. They climb up and past the rocky outcrop that makes up Sierra Buttes, Game of Thrones fans will enjoy their discussion about their top 3 moments from the series. Settling down to a pleasant camp by a lake they continue to plan the miles ahead to make sure that they can reach Canada before their visas expire in September. A good day in Episode 90 of Trail & Errors.

The stars are bright overnight, and Ethan marvels at how much you can see when camped away from civilisation. Despite it being July the trail still has snowy sections, and they wear their spikes as they head out with expansive views out to the horizon. The elevation continues to drop, and the terrain continues to change, as they move further away from the Sierras. They should be done with the snow in a couple of days, but for the moment it still causes problems with navigation as the trail is often covered with snow. They enjoy their lunch, and feel they have their routine well dialled in now. The path when it runs high along the ridge lines is clear of snow with great views though windy, and then it dives into perfumed forests where there are pockets of snow, but none last for too long. They finish the day at a glorious campsite near a river, and agree it's been an awesome day on trail. Episode 89 of Trail & Errors :)

After a good night's sleep the guys are starting to lose track of days. They plan to dive into Truckee today for a quick resupply, and head down to the scenic road past Donner Lake to hitch into town. A smoothie and a bagel in town sets them up for the rest of their chores, and they start to plan further ahead as their days can be more structured now that the trail is consistent and flatter. People are everywhere in Truckee as it's still the holiday weekend, and it's evident that this area is popular for outdoor pursuits. Waiting awhile for a hitch back to trail two cars come along at once! Back on trail through beautiful woodland the walking is good, but Molly feels the whole pizza she had for lunch swelling her tummy. They reach Interstate 80, where the trail goes underneath the road through two tunnels, each of which is a flowing river of snowmelt! Climbing uphill after that icy-cold experience they emerge from the forest with fantastic views across the landscape from Castle Pass. Deciding to finish early they set up camp with the vista spread out before them. A new plan is developed for the rest of Northern California in order to maintain a good average daily mileage, and resupply points are earmarked for the days ahead. Join Molly & Ethan as they move north from the Lake Tahoe area and begin the final stretch towards Oregon... Episode 88 of Trail & Errors.

Although it's a bucolic setting camping next to a river, Molly & Ethan pay the price when they wake up this morning as all of their gear is wet with condensation. An annoying start to the day, as they head towards Donner Pass with two big climbs to conquer; Squaw Valley and then the colourfully named Tinker Knob. Ethan regrets not stretching this morning, as they head uphill and the snow appears again. The ski runs and infrastructure they walk past looks nonsensical in the summer-like conditions, but there is enough snow that a few skiers have hiked up to get some runs in. They bump into Sugar Glider, who had all his food stolen from his tent by a bear when he camped near Echo Lake! Across a river crossing and more snow their Sierra experience has really hardened them to the conditions. Ethan is europhic at the top of the climb to Tinker Knob, having an epiphany moment in realising how strong and fit he has become, and how the trail has crystallised ideas and plans he has for the future. They walk high along the ridgeline towards Donner Pass and the ski ranch there, where they get a free 42oz beer, and stop for burgers, music, and chat with their fellow hikers. Afterwards they move down the trail near to the road where they camp in preparation for hitching into Truckee tomorrow for a 5 day resupply that will take them onwards to Quincy. Enjoy the journey in Episode 87 of Trail & Errors.

Waking up to yet another beautiful sunny day the guys are hoping for less snow, a less obscured route, and more miles today. They heard what sounded like an impressive fireworks display over Lake Tahoe during the night, and this morning the PCT shows its friendly side with a pleasant clear trail. They consider the miles left to Canada, and the time they have left on their visa, and some mental maths reveals that they need to get to 20+ miles per day from now on. The snow continues to be an issue as they progress towards Granite Chief Wilderness, though they hear that after Sierra City (80 miles away) the PCT is clear. A picnic table lunch is a nice change from sitting in the dirt (or snow!), and they have great views over Lake Tahoe before heading back into a perfumed forest. Glissading down a couple of snowy sections, they push on past 20 miles for the day, though Molly takes a tumble off the trail :( . Eventually camping by a large river, they think about reaching Donner Pass tomorrow and getting some hot food and a free beer at the Ski Ranch there. A satisfying day with good miles made in Episode 86 of Tail & Errors :) 

Day 100, and it's tough to get up from their warm tent. Heading towards Dick's Pass they walk alongside the still-frozen beauty of Aloha Lake and bump into quite a few Tahoe Rim Trail hikers who warn them about the snow ahead. EthaMol are unfazed by the potential conditions; they feel like expert hikers now, having trained in the SoCal desert and been tested by the High Sierra. The snow is annoying however, as it hides the trail and in the woods navigation is doubly difficult with false trails and lack of landmarks. The views when they occur are beautiful, but not Sierra beautiful, and although the strategy for the day (up a pass, down a pass, walk to camp) is reminiscent of the Sierras they really want to make more miles and are frustrated by the conditions. Slow hiking, getting lost often, and trudging through the snow leads to a wandering mind and homesickness, but they end the day by soaking their feet in a cold lake by their remote campsite. Motivation is difficult, and there is an element of self-pity as they prepare their dinner, but the food cheers them up and they consider their plans for the next couple of days getting to Truckee. Join the team on independence day in Episode 85 of Trail & Errors.