Street Food Blog
By Ranie Sirah
Street food has been a way to bring communities together for 1000's of years. In todays moderns world, we can see dishes that have stood the test of time, whilst bridging gaps in society, that our politicians haven't. Street food and food history is a quagmire of intricate details, that Ranie is going to explore with you...
First stop...Listen to find out!!
Good Companions - National Fish and Chip day
A dish that, having been brought together around 1860 by Joseph Malin. Although Mr Malin opened his store on Old Ford Road, Bow, London, he moved from there in the 1970’s to make room for houses to be built in the east end of London. It was the late Samuel Isaacs who formed the first actual restaurants of note and expanded his empire across London and the south coast. One address, holds a special place in the fish and chip hall of fame...1 Marine Parade, Brighton. Pictured in many seaside postcards, this restaurant that sits opposite the Brighton Pier, has served fish and chips to eat in or to be enjoyed along the promenade for over a century. Now owned and run by Yorkshire’s son of the modern day “Chippie”, Harry Ramsden, this restaurant has served British Fish and Chips to almost every class of person. Even though Mr Ramsden started his business in Guisley, West Yorkshire, (circ.1928) the business has become as much a statement of this embolic dish as it was for the troops during WWII. In fact, to maintain a strong morale amongst the British population and also those brave soldiers fighting across the shores of Europe, Winston Churchill had ensured the dish was not part of the rationing at home, whilst also providing Fish and Chips to the troops to boost morale. It is also believed that the code “Fish” and then the word “chips” was used as a signal between troops at checkpoints for identification. Any hesitation or poor pronunciation, would mean instant refusal of passage (in a wartime zone, that meant certain death)! So, as you can see, the dish that originally found its way to into British culture back in the 16th century as a fried fish coated in flour, by nomadic Jewish immigrants from Spain, via Holland; the Chips being introduced to Britain by the fleeing French Protestant refugees in the 17th century, who settled in the London area; this marriage of these two components came together in London and up in Mossley, Lancashire, served out of wooden huts or on carts as street food and has definitely cemented itself as British food at its very best. At its peak 35k stores were spread across Britain with only about 10k remaining now...it’s an institution that needs support to survive. With the difficulties of the pandemic effecting most food businesses, Fish and Chip shops are having to adapt rapidly. Even the record breaking Harry Ramsden, who in 1952 served 10,000 portions of Fish and Chips in a single day, earning a rightful place in the Guinness book of records, has has to adapt by selling frozen boxed meals in supermarkets. At a time when the heritage of food and cultural identity has become extremely important, we can thank the refugees of the 16th and 17th century for their contributions to an all-time classic, quintessentially British Street Food dish! From the humble introduction of Pescado Frito (the Jewish dish of flour coated fried fish) we can continue to enjoy this symbol of true British culture in the modernised newspaper looking paper wrappers or compostable boxes. Celebrating the fusion of cultures can also now be seen in world cuisines having adaptations of the fish and chip dinner, with their own twist. From Indian Pakora battered fish and Masala chips to Korean noodles with Tempura fish and fried potato cubes; this is truly a dish that has brought communities together through the years and will continue to do so for many more to come.
Oyster is King
Ever since Roman times over 2000 years ago, the Oyster has become a key player in British food culture. The European oyster or "Native" oyster, has been gathered from British waters and consumed in the 100's of thousands each year. From Cornwall to Whitstable Bay in Kent, these bivalve molluscs have tempted food lovers from all classes. Whilst today we see Oysters as a delicacy; around the 10th-14th century, oysters were a popular dish amongst both rich and poor. Often cooked in the sea water from within the shells "Liquor", they would usually be topped with a drop of Ale and some Pepper. It was from around the 17th century that the oyster gained popularity in different dishes. From being used in sausages, combined with pork and wheat; filled between suet pastry for pies; cooked slowly in a stew; and even stuffed into poultry before being roasted, whilst using the liquor to create a pouring gravy.
These variations made the oyster a staple part of British food culture. It would seem that by the early to mid-19th century, oysters had become so widely available, that a street vendor could be seen on almost every street corner in London. Used instead of the more expensive Beef, the oyster was being favoured by the lower classes during Victorian times to create the Oyster Pie. Unlike the modern version with leeks, bacon, mash potato and parmesan crust, these Victorian pies were a thicker pastry, encasing the oyster stew mix and sold across London by street sellers. The huge desire for this popular and very inexpensive seafood meant that, by mid 1860's over 700 million oysters were consumed in London alone...Now that's a lot of Oysters!! That's the equivalent of every Londoner today, eating approximately 80 oysters a year! In comparison to the above, 100 years later only 3 million oysters were consumed in London.
The vast overfishing of UK waters had caused a shortage and driven prices through the roof. It was a time for the government to act and that they did. By introducing very strict licensing laws for fishing and also introducing the Pacific oyster from Japan, into the UK waters, the vast majority of gathered oysters of consumption, are now from this source.
Even though the oyster has had such rapid growth and decent in food culture since the stone age cooking them on open fires, to the modern day enjoying naked (uncooked) oysters in posh champagne bars across the cities; there is no doubt that the Oyster has stood the test of time as the OG of street food!
Come on down, the Spice is right!!!
Well it's not exactly spice, more like Chili!! Chili peppers are used in the majority of foods across India but also the whole world. From South America to East Asia, Africa to the Middle East, these little beauties have been complimenting food since the late 14th Century. The thing is that, the chilli goes back even further and is also used in a way to create a hierarchy amongst Friday night revellers.
The chili has been trending recently in its popularity amongst foodies for both the right and wrong reasons, lets explore just some of it here today.
Sneaky cheeky snack...
A little package of pure delight. The iconic Samosa has been a symbol of Indian food for many years. Reaching across the globe, in many disguises, this cheeky snack has a slightly more complex history.
A tale of brothers, poets and varieties that will keep royalty and everyday working classes happy for hours. Enjoyed with tea and a touch of sauce, this perfectly formed triangle, has been celebrated since the 9th Century.
Comfort food...
For me it was and still is a very popular dish that is enjoyed the world over. A dish that was enjoyed by emperors and the poor, throughout the ages. Dating back to the Bronze age, this dish, has so many varieties across the Indian subcontinent, that it has also been adapted into many dishes across the world too.
Enjoy this next chapter of the Ranie's Food World podcast series. Food is medicine and food is love... in many many ways!
A Cheeky Sin
What started out to be a cheeky "Sin" by a 1st Century cook in South India, turned into the most memorable dish that travellers to India will recall. The Dosa in its many varieties, has become a symbol of "Food for All", having been enjoyed by Maharaja's to the poorer communities across India and the modern day world. This crispy, yet fluffy, fermented rice flour pancake is a dish that can cover savoury or sweet. Listen in to the story of why this dish means so much to me and why it was created in the first place.
Bread is freedom.
In this episode, I take a look into the humble chapatti. The staple part of any Indian dining table and yet it's symbolic meaning in the fight for freedom. Join me while I talk about memories, the traditions and also the cultures that brought this bread to life.
The early years.
All journeys have to start with a beginning...