Underdressed

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Our next episode of Underdressed is an interview I've been looking forward to for a long time with Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette Patterns! I get into the details with Jenny about the creation of the Willowdale and Loftus bra patterns and we also explore the dynamic structure of her team and business. Enjoy!

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Hello Friends,

In this episode of Underdressed Elizabeth opens my mind to the world of computational patternmaking and generative garment development far beyond what I have explored in Clo3D.  I definitely still don’t understand the nuances of this process, but I’m very intrigued to learn more. 

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Hi Friends,

I hope you enjoy this conversation with Katy as much as I did. I'm super lucky to get to nerd out for more than an hour about 3D bodies, breasts and the implications on the future of the intimates industry.

As promised here are all the link's mentioned in the show;

Katherine Schildemyer

https://www.ksappareldesign.com/

Soft Body Demo on Youtubehttps://youtu.be/dR6lnclrKhM?si=QC8IXZx01gSuJAzC

https://youtu.be/D3L1OAfiri0?si=ZwrO7GDKssjCnRe4

Seddi Textura

https://textura.ai/

Shima Seiki

https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/software/

Rhino

https://www.rhino3d.com/

Lex Frideman and Mark Zukerberghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVYrJJNdrEg

Historical book on 3D design

https://books.apple.com/us/book/innovation-and-technology-of-womens-intimate/id956774334

https://standards.ieee.org/ieee/3141/10825/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Hello Friends,

In this episode we get a behind the scenes peek at Tensengral, a company developed by Brad and Terry Jamison. This is a unique couple who have used some very industrious skills to develop braided underwear from lace making machines.

https://www.tensengral.com/

https://lingeriebriefs.com/2024/01/14/innovation-sustainability-tensengrals-braided-lace-bralettes/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Hello Friends,

Please enjoy this beautiful conversation with Madison Alexandra who specializes in bra fit education. There is no point in talking about how bras are made without truly understanding exactly how they should fit. Madison talks about her experience as a fitter and educator, and of course shares her story about how she has found this corner of the internet where she can have an impact. Madison is also a crazy talented singer and has helped me gain some perspective on chasing my joy.

IG https://www.instagram.com/madisonxalexandra/

Also check out my interview with Christine Stodley

https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/trudy-gardner/episodes/E19-Christine-Stodley-Custom-Bra-Maker-On-Finding-Purpose-in-Uplifting-Others-e2celdk

Brand Mentioned

https://comexim.pl/en/

https://www.ewa-michalak.pl/main-eng.html

https://overturelingerie.com/

https://molke.co.uk/

https://www.instagram.com/blushbras/

https://us.honeybirdette.com/

https://mariemur.com/

https://www.playfulpromises.com/collections/scantilly-by-curvy-kate

https://www.couturedenuit.com/collections/all

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

In this episode I get the opportunity to sit down with Erin for part 2 of our conversation, and this time we invited her business partner Mary, to join in.  Erin and her mom have been running Emerald Erin for almost a decade and its clear their business is based on a mutual respect for eachother and high standards for the products and services they offer.  Come join the conversation and find out about what has been going on in the business since our last conversation and also what is in the works.

Emerald Erin's Shop

https://shop.emeralderin.com/

Becki and Chris

https://www.youtube.com/@BeckiandChris

Wool and the Gang

https://www.woolandthegang.com/

Music by⁠ Coma-Media⁠ from⁠ Pixabay

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

In this episode I invite Steph Thiel to share her amazing story which covers a range of life experiences often revolving around the idea of helping others through self acceptance. Step talks about the evolution of her own independent pattern making business Rad Patterns, and her unique approach to sizing.

Steph also shares insights into her career as a designer and patternmaker, which started with a position at Adidas when they were first adopting 3D processes. Her journey evolves into a process of self-discovery, and the clarity that comes from identifying and respecting personal values.

Other mentions;

Love to Sew Podcast

https://lovetosewpodcast.com/episodes/episode-24-sewing-makes-you-love-yourself/

University of Portsmouth Research Group in Breast Health

https://www.port.ac.uk/research/research-groups-and-centres/research-group-in-breast-health#education

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

In this podcast episode, I invite Sofia Luzon, and Lisha Sanders, to talk about the differences and similarities in Clo3D and Browzwear, the two current titans in leading 3D design in the fashion industry.

We cover various aspects, including the benefits of 3D design in reducing waste, improving sample accuracy, and enhancing creative freedom. We also address the challenges and limitations currently faced in 3D design and how these are expressed in each software.

One thing we all emphasize is the importance of combining professional pattern-making skills with 3D tools to achieve the best results. You will get a blend of technical insights, personal experiences, and a vision for a more efficient, creative, and sustainable future in intimate apparel design.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Thanks to everyone who has joined me on the journey this year, it has been a pivotal and I'm beyond grateful for each and everyone of you who has chosen to spend a small piece of your precious time on this planet with me.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

The Squad

https://www.thesquadnation.com/

Pheonix Active

https://www.shopphoenixactive.com/

Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course

Use code: Underdressed for 20%

Christine Stodley

https://www.instagram.com/blushbras/

Karen Weaver

https://michellescreations.ca/tag/mrs-weavers-finest-unmentionables/

Monica

https://bravobella.teachable.com/p/home

Maria Pendel , Dragon miss Corsetry and bra making

Beverly Johnson

https://www.braandcorsetsupplies.com/

Gina Rae designs

Jennifer Fairbanks

https://porcelynne.com/categories/patterns

Kristina Shinn

https://www.amazon.ca/Patternmaking-Underwear-Design-Kristina-2010-04-01/dp/B01FGLBO4S

The bra Makery

https://bramaking.supplies/

Fit 2 Sew

https://fit2sew.co.uk/

Madison Alexandra

https://www.instagram.com/madisonxalexandra/

Sponsor: ⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

In the "Unaddressed" podcast, host Trudy Gardner interviews Helen from Nellie Jones, a bra-making supply company. Key points discussed include:

1. Origin and Evolution of Nellie Jones: Helen shares the story behind Nellie Jones, initially founded by another individual and later transformed into a full-time business under Helen's direction.

2. Challenges and Solutions in Material Sourcing: Helen discusses the complexities of sourcing quality, ethical materials for bra-making, emphasizing the importance of this process for her business's integrity and product quality.

3. Transition from Landscape Design to Lingerie Business: Helen talks about her career shift from a 16-year tenure in landscape design to running Nellie Jones, bringing her entrepreneurial and design experience into the intimate apparel industry.

4. Role of Community and Social Media: The discussion highlights the significance of community involvement and social media in growing and supporting the business, facilitating knowledge sharing and connections within the sewing community.

5. Business Approach and Design Process: Helen focuses on a curated inventory for bra-making, ensuring compatibility and functionality. Her design process begins with sketches, aiding in visualization and planning.

6. Customer Engagement and Future Outlook: Helen expresses joy in helping customers with their projects and doesn't plan on major business expansion, preferring to refine her model and improve supplier relationships.

   
   

   Find Nellie Jones here also check out her free PDF on getting started with bra making;

   https://nelliejoans.co.nz/

   
   

   How Helen got started;

   Merckwaerdigh Blog

   https://merckwaerdigh.wordpress.com/tag/bra-pattern/

   
   

   Orange Lingerie Malborough Pattern;

   https://orange-lingerie.com/products/marlborough-bra-pattern

   
   

   
   

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Asi Efros Youtube Channel

https://www.youtube.com/@asiefros4797

Lab Grown Chicken

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08nHuUbt8SQ&t=859s

Free Workshop: Intimate Conversations in Clo

https://learn.kndrsn.com/intimate-conversations-in-clo

Clo3D Foundations for Intimate Apparel Online Course

https://trudy-gardner-s-school.teachable.com/p/clo3d-intimate-apparel-fast-track-foundations

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

E15 Sue Founder of Bra Builders and Curator of The International Bra Sewing Bee Show Notes

https://www.brabuilders.com

https://brasewingbee.com/

Bravo Bella (Monica)

https://bravobellabras.com/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Natalie's Instagram

Bra Sewing Bee

https://brasewingbee.com/

Interfiliere/Curve Trade Shows

https://saloninternationaldelalingerie.com/

Concepts Paris Trends Magazine

https://www.conceptsparis.com/

Best of Intima – Magazine with some good articles about the use of 3D Design in the industry.

https://www.calameo.com/read/001038217555c84a6fa8c?authid=Ay48gDijphgq

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Find out more about the KRSTN NDRSN Design Studio here;

https://www.kndrsn.com/

Brands mentioned

https://www.adoreme.com/

https://saalt.com/

Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course

https://trudy-gardner-s-school.teachable.com/p/clo3d-intimate-apparel-fast-track-foundations

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Laurie’s website filled with resources on lingerie design;

https://vanjonssondesign.com/

My beginner course on using Clo3D for modelling intimate apparel:

https://trudy-gardner-s-school.teachable.com/p/clo3d-intimate-apparel-fast-track-foundations/

Sofia’s beginner course on using Clo3D to draft intimate apparel:

https://atelier.sofia-luzon.com/online-courses-lingerie-design/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Episode 8 Clo3D Expert with Isabel from IDES Studio

⁠E9: Larissa King, Intimate Apparel Designer, Entrepenuer and FIT Instructor⁠

Sign up here for free Alvanon trial

SIGN UP HERE FOR INFORMATION ON TRUDY’S COURSE: CLO3D FOUNDATIONS FOR INTIMATE APPAREL

SIGN UP HERE TO FIND OUT ABOUT SOFIA’S COURSE: CLO3D – INTIMATE APPAREL PATTERN DRAFTING FOUNDATIONS

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

It was a pleasure to speak with Harrison from Tianhai Lace and have Sofia Luzon as my co-host this week! Harrison has spent his whole life in the lace manufacturing industry, and has seen it shift through a series of historical changes.  We talk about the history and future of the industry and how he has found his way into a Chinese company that maintains ethical practices as a foundation of normal business operations.

PS I left out Teavers Lace in the poll because I feel like not enough people would have enough experience with it to make a comparison.

Links Mentioned;

⁠E3 Aashika Chakrabarti Lace Designer on Turning Disadvantages into Unfair Advantages ⁠

The Infinite Game by Simon Sinek

Sign up here for my email newsletter, and get notified about our Clo3d: Foundations for Intimate Apparel online course!

Find Sofia here to ask about her course on Cl03D Drafting for Intimate Apparel!

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Larissa’s Brand

https://www.entrechatdance.com/

https://www.instagram.com/entrechatdance/

The Squad

https://www.thesquadnation.com/

https://www.instagram.com/thesquad_nation/

https://www.linkedin.com/company/the-squad-creative-consulting-group/

https://www.facebook.com/sqdnation

Hanky Panky

https://www.hankypanky.com/

Bibliography

Design, Sewing, & Construction:

Armillas, Alexandra. “Sewing Techniques to Create Luxurious Couture Lingerie,” ThreadsMagazine.com, Retrieved from: https://www. threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/20/create-couture-lingerie-2 Accessed January 14, 2023

Betzina, Sandra. “Sewing Lycra Blends,” ThreadsMagazine.com, Retrieved from: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/sewing-with-knits/sewing-lycra-blends Accessed August 26, 2022

Busque, Pamela. “Elastic Fact File” Threads Magazine, October/ November 2004, 51. Cloake, Dawn. Lingerie Design on the Stand. London, B.T. Batsford, 2000

Cole, Julie (Julie Christine). Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics. New York: Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc., 2016.

Collins Brealey, Julie. Making Corsets. Marlborough, The Crowood Press, 2021.

The Editors of Cy DeCosse Incorporated. Singer Sewing Reference Library: Sewing Lingerie. Minnetonka, Cy DeCosse Incorporated, 1991.

Czachor, Sharon. Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics. New York, NY: Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing, Inc., 2016.

Haggar, Ann. Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear, Second Edition. Oxford, Blackwell Publishing, 2004

Gibb, Helen. Ribbonwork: The Complete Guide. Iola, Krause Publications, 2004.

Joseph-Armstrong, Helen. Draping for Apparel Design. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2000.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Hello!

Welcome back! Here are the links we talked about in this episode;

Intimate Apparel Technical Collective Workshop and Email list links;

https://linktr.ee/ia_technical_collective

Find out about my upcoming workshop on using Clo3D for intimates;

https://linktr.ee/trudygardnerproductions

Find Isabel here;

https://ides.studio/

https://www.instagram.com/ides.studio/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYK343qL0pdEvachOeN5ITA

Is AI the future of fashion?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2WKINGygl8

#41: How to stay motivated in the age of AI art

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlxSW1VTz8k

The Infinite Game by Simon Sinek

https://simonsinek.com/books/the-infinite-game/

Bias Cut Woman

https://www.instagram.com/biascutwoman/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Show Notes

LillyPad Designs Website

https://www.lilypadesigns.com/patterns

Upcoming Clo3D Intimate Apparel Workshops;

Part 1) Drafting a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-drafting-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602231128517

Part2) Creating a 3D prototype from a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-creating-a-3d-prototype-from-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602285852197?aff=erelpanelorg

Part 3) Grading a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-grading-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602297777867?aff=erelpanelorg

Part 4) Grading a 3D Prototype

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-grading-a-3d-prototype-tickets-602312461787?aff=erelpanelorg

Contact me;

trudygardnerproductions@gmail.com

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Jonathan Stark’s Podcast;

https://www.thebusinessofauthority.com/episodes/do-you-really-have-competition

IATC Seed Membership Sign Up

https://sites.google.com/iatechnicalcollective.com/iatechnicalcollective/home?authuser=0

IATC Grow Membership Sign Up

https://ko-fi.com/iatechnicalcollective

Lace Revival Technical Discussion

https://www.instagram.com/p/CqTCUtAjRYv/

Interfiliere IATC members showcased

Amelia @studio.underneath

Molly @the_amora_atelier

Sofia @sofialuzon_atelier

Maxine and Caitlin @intimateapparelsamples

Upcoming Clo3D Intimate Apparel Workshops;

Part 1) Drafting a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-drafting-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602231128517

Part2) Creating a 3D prototype from a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-creating-a-3d-prototype-from-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602285852197?aff=erelpanelorg

Part 3) Grading a 2D Pattern

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-grading-a-2d-pattern-tickets-602297777867?aff=erelpanelorg

Part 4) Grading a 3D Prototype

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/clo3d-for-intimate-apparel-grading-a-3d-prototype-tickets-602312461787?aff=erelpanelorg

Contact me;

trudygardnerproductions@gmail.com

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Ruhee's Business;

Rubies Bras

Sign here to find out more about my upcoming online course on Clo3D:

https://sites.google.com/view/trudygardnerdesign/courses?authuser=0

Sign up here for news about the Intimate Apparel Technical Collective Workshops

https://sites.google.com/iatechnicalcollective.com/iatechnicalcollective/join-us?authuser=0

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Porcelynne Desings - Sewing patterns and supplies

https://porcelynne.com/

Jennifer's Books

https://porcelynne.com/categories/books

Other resource mentioned;

PolyPattern

http://polyorganize.com/en/PolyPattern/cad-pattern-design-software.html

Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong

https://www.amazon.ca/Patternmaking-Fashion-Design-Joseph-Armstrong/dp/0136069347

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Aashika’s IG;

https://www.instagram.com/decadentbrat/

Underdressed episode with Sofia Luzon

https://anchor.fm/trudy-gardner/episodes/E1-Sofia-Luzon-on-Origins-e1ta6sk

London College of Fashion

https://www.arts.ac.uk/subjects/fashion-making-and-pattern-cutting/undergraduate/ba-hons-fashion-contour-lcf

Debenhams

https://www.debenhams.com/

Coco De Mer

https://www.coco-de-mer.com/

Best Pacific

http://www.bestpacific.com/

Concepts Paris

https://www.conceptsparis.com

Aashika’s Calvin Klein Lotus Bra

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnldWN_sZmY/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Lever’s lace

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5uX143hx38

Sew Heidi

https://successfulfashiondesigner.com/learn/

Cottonworks and Adobe Substance Webinar: Closing the Gap Between Digital and Physical Materials

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V46s2BP4kYw

Intimate Apparel Technical Collective

https://sites.google.com/iatechnicalcollective.com/iatechnicalcollective

Music by Coma-Media from Pixabay

About Wayfinder Lingerie;

My Website and freelance services

https://sites.google.com/view/trudygardnerdesign/services?authuser=0

IG

https://www.instagram.com/wayfinderlingerie/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Erin's shop; https://www.instagram.com/emeralderinsews/

IG @emeralderinsews

Book mentioned; Stolen Focus by Johann Hari

My #2023D Intimate Apparel Challenge

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Find out more about Sofia Luzon:

Sofia's lingerie brand

https://www.sofia-luzon.com/

Sofia's Atelier (freelance services);

https://atelier.sofia-luzon.com/

Emerald Erin's Blog: 

https://emeralderin.com/blog/

Interfiliere Trade Show

https://interfiliere-paris.com/

Intimate Apparel Technical Collective

https://sites.google.com/iatechnicalcollective.com/iatechnicalcollective

Sponsor: ⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off

Welcome! Thanks for joining me on the journey as I explore the world of podcasting and intimate apparel.

Music by Coma-Media from Pixabay